1003. Round World Trip May 2014: Broadmoor, Capilano, 6 Japanese Courses, and Nine Bridges in S Korea

1003.  Round World Trip May 2014: Broadmoor, Capilano, 6 Japanese Courses, and Nine Bridges in S Korea

Email 5/6/2014:

First time staying at the Broadmoor for me.  Great hotel.  Comfortable room, good TV for "24", all the essentials of life.

Broadmoor has 54 holes...East/West and Mountain courses.  They started in 1918 with 18 by Donald Ross.  Then in 1955, Robert Trent Jones Sr. completed another 18 holes, and they "mixed" the two to create an East Course and a West Course, I guess with both being called Ross and Jones designs.  In fact, they also rerouted some of the original Ross holes (and made other changes through the years) so now at least the West seems to be much less than 50% Ross.  Some of the greens are clearly Ross, but others just as clearly are not.  A third routing ("Mountain" about 3-4 miles away) was designed by Arnold Palmer and renovated a few years ago by Jack Nicklaus' firm after a major flood did significant damage to it.

I only saw and played the West.  If you are looking for a good reason as to why I picked it, you have forgotten who you are dealing with.  I played the West because just a few years ago (43 to be exact, 1971), the West was included in the bracket of "41-50" in Golf Digest's Greatest 100 in USA. As one of my bucket lists is to play every course that has ever been in the top 50 of all three magazines, this dictated that I must play the West.  I followed that command.  In some ways, this bucket list is interesting in that you see what was considered "great" or "near great" 30-40 years ago. On the other hand, back then golf nuts like me did not travel as extensively, so I would think the Top 100's back then were much less researched and less carefully compiled.  Truth is all lists such as these have some mistakes, but as they evolve, they tend to be more "accurate" (wrong word but you get the drift).

In summary, Broadmoor West is a good course, but would never sniff a Top 100 rating today.  In fact, on GD's "Best in State" 2013 list for CO, there are 20 courses listed and the West is not included.  East is #5.  It feels confining, does not "flow" well, and because of input from so many architects, lacks cohesion.  It is a beautiful site but is a prime example (but not the best example) of the points made in the paragraph above.  Pro shop is first class as is the staff.  Best hole is #17...which is very very good.

Had an 83 (with apologies to one recipient of these reports who said he didn't want to hear what I shot).  Birdied #1 but didn't hit it well.  Will be sorry though to leave the mountains...nothing like adding 10% to distances to make a golfer feel good.  Oh well, guess it is time to get back down to Earth (sorry about that terrible pun).

Am now at Denver airport awaiting approx 7:30 departure to Vancouver, BC, Canada to play Capilano designed by the great Canadian architect Stanley Thompson and opened in 1937.  In Golf Week's Best Canadian Classics (prior to 1960) published 3 weeks ago, Thompson was the designer of 6 of the first 8 (Harry S. Colt did the other 2), and 16 of the 40 listed.  Capilano was on Golf Magazine's top 100 worldwide in 1985-1991, with its highest rating being #65 in 1985.  I am playing with the head pro, the current club President and incoming President.  Sounds like my advance team did good work, but I do think I need to discuss the importance of speaking the truth about my game to the advance team.

Have to go catch me plane.

Email 5/8/2014:

As I write this, I am about 3 hours into an 11 hour flight from Vancouver to Tokyo.  Hope to get to sleep after I finish drafting this trip update.

OK...how are we doing and what is our status and the status of the infamous "bucket lists".  Note the following:

--almost 4 of 16+ days into the trip
--have played 4 of 14 courses...10 to go
--Bucket List #1...Current Golf Magazine Worldwide Top 100...still at 93 of 100...scheduled to start making progress on this 5/9 in Tokyo
--Bucket Lists #2...Current USA Top 100 for all three magazines (Golf Digest, Golf Week, and Golf Magazine), there are 144 course on this list and I am now at 137, missing 7;
--Bucket List #3...Every course ever hitting Top 50 in USA in any of the 3 magazines since listings started...184 possible, played 179 and missing 5;
--Note...due to overlap, only need to play 8 to complete both List #2 and List #3
--Bucket List #4...Every course ever listed in Golf Magazine Top 100 since listings started...there are 190 courses worldwide that have made these lists...I am now missing 24, including the 10 courses left on my itinerary (7 that are are the current list and 3 others in Japan that had been on one or more lists prior to 2013)

Now to my regular report.

Capilano Golf Club

Up early on 5/7, called Pat, answered some of your emails, etc.  Then off for short ride to Capilano for breakfast and golf.  I was prepared for some beautiful scenery and views after receiving several emails from some of you you have played there.  As i pulled into the club and got a glimpse of some holes, the wonderful "fingerprints" of Stanley Thompson were obvious, and this old man's pulse quickened in anticipation.  The clubhouse is really something.  Beautifully done with nothing over the top.  The men's locker room had been renovated and their old metal lockers (unchanged for decades) still utilized...with wood framing around the rows of lockers.  And at the south end of the locker room, in a men's bar area, there is a truly spectacular view of downtown Vancouver.  Course has to be pretty damn good to leave this setting and go out to play.  Only thing missing from locker room is a view from the men's urinals (a la Newport CC)...there is a wall that could get a window, but alas, it looks in the wrong direction.

Met my hosts, Bob Fairweather and Tim Earle (current and incoming club presidents) and we had a lovely breakfast (yes, as always, I had brought my own cereal...no reason to start getting inconsistent in these settings).  Then we went off on #1 about 8:30, joined by Mark Thirtle (head pro and a transplant from London).  First hole is short downhill par 5 of 445 yards (plays as a 4 in competitions) flowing in the same southerly direction as the view from the locker room.  As we get about 100 yards short of the green, I turn around and see simply spectacular (yes I know my vocabulary is limited) snow capped mountains that are north of the club...framed against a crystal clear blue sky.  Wow!!.  The layout of the property has a vertical drop of some 400', and Thompson did a masterful design job on a property that while incredibly scenic, could have been an impediment to a world class design.  Best holes are 6, 7, 9, 10, 13, 14, 17 and 18.  Tim Earle might strongly dispute my leaving out #11...a down hill par 3 (166 from back and 146 from our tees)...as he proceeded to hit a perfect shot that landed, took 1 or 2 hops and trickled into the hole.  And as another foursome had let us play through on that tee, there was an audience of 7 of us watching.  Suffice it to say, neither Bob, Mark or I could duplicate Tim's shot.  Certainly added to the memories of the day and the trip.  Good to see an ace (the 10th in his lifetime) on a properly hit shot..and Tim is a player.  His 18 hole lifetime ringer score (non-golfers...that is the sum of his lowest individual scores in his lifetime on all 18 holes at Capilano) is 33.  I wanted to ask him if he was prohibited from playing 4 or so holes.

Front nine starts with 6 score-able holes followed by 3 real tough ones.  I followed the script perfectly, with six straight pars :-) followed by a bogey and two doubles :-(.  Basically lost my game from 7-14, the finished pretty well for an 85.  Course has thousands of majestic evergreens that have been pruned back from the fairways and do not often come into play...but they sure add to the exquisite look of the place.  Looking at the old pictures in the clubhouse, when Capilano was completed in 1937, there were very few trees on the property.  I would like to see some more judicious pruning, but not too much (and I ain't no tree hugger).

After we finished play, we had a very nice lunch, I tool a quick shower, and was off to the airport.  It was clear from being around Capilano, that it is a wonderfully vibrant place with a strong active group of members who are justifiably proud of their club.  And while the course lacks the length required to adequately test today's pro's, it is a fun, challenging design which one would never become bored with.  First class club and course all the way.  And my hosts are first class guys and golfers...helped to make this a great day.

Due to land in Tokyo at 7:20PM on 5/8..and should hopefully get to my hotel before 10 or 10:30pm.  Tough day Friday, scheduled to play Tokyo GC and Kasumigaseki CC at 8am and 1:30pm respectively (they are contiguous).  Saturday will be rest day  :-)

Time for some sleep.  This should be emailed about 11pm Tokyo time Thursday...or 10am Thurs EDT.

Email 5/9/2014 (Tokyo time):

Played both Tokyo Golf Club and Kasumigaseki CC (East Course) today after flight yesterday from Vancouver...and I am flat out exhausted.

Time for this puppy to get some sleep...next edition within 24 hours.

Email 5/10/2014:

Well, having been quite delinquent yesterday, there is much to catch up on.  To those of you who expressed some form of outrage in the past 24 hours (including one bearded former polyethylene salesman who lives in Houston), please note that all such communications are being monitored and will be presented to friends in high places in North Korea during my visit to its southern cousin next week.

OK, so how did Johnny Carson lead in after a break?  Soooo, let's see, where were we?......

While composing the last full reporting email, I was on my flight from Vancouver to Tokyo.  We landed as expected, about 20 minutes late but nice smooth flight.  Only problem was the business class seats did not lie flat..they were the "Laz-e-boy" style where you can't fully stretch your legs.  Got through immigration quickly and after my suitcase came out on the carousel I noticed an All Nippon employee carrying a white board saying "paging Paul Rudovsky".  Figuring I was probably the only Paul Rudovsky on the flight, I identified myself and she advised that their data records did not show my second piece of luggage on the flight, but that they it wasn't in Vancouver.  Being that the second piece of luggage was just my golf bag, I was cool as a cucumber (that was placed in a microwave at high for 20 minutes).  But then 30 seconds later, I saw my golf bag coming down the ramp.  Once again, my ability to stay cool in these circumstances kept my blood pressure well below 250/195.

At customs, they asked me to open my suitcase and inquired about my numerous bags of cereal.  When I explained that it was my breakfast cereal supply for the next two weeks, they replied "but of course" and waved me through.  So much for those of you (most or all of you??) who think I'm weird for traveling with it.

Finding my express bus to my hotel was a snap, and it arrived at the hotel exactly at the forecast time.  Love Japanese precision.

Arrived at hotel just before 10PM.  We are about 20-25 mile north of downtown (close to Tokyo GC and Kamsumigaseki CC).  When they showed me the room, I knew right then and there that it might have been a good thing that Pat was not along.  Small ain't the word...this room was 21 feet by 10 feet, including the bathroom and closet (one thing golfers are good for is being able to measure spaces by pacing them off).  That was going to be tight, but the real issue was the hotel had no wi-fi service, just an internet cable in the room (and my Mac laptop has no compatible port).  Found a solution by sitting outside the Starbucks in the lobby (it had just closed), and pirating its wi-fi signal...whose signal reached about 20' outside the walls of the store...but it worked.  That allowed this frugal (otherwise known as cheap) traveler to use Skype to make calls, and it was great talking to the wifey, even if anyone in the lobby of the hotel could hear our conversation.

Weather forecast looks good for Friday except for a short window in early afternoon when thunderstorms are in the forecast.  Sounds like Kasumigaseki could be in jeopardy, but who knows.

Went to bed after a very long day...with the next day including 36 holes

Tokyo Golf Club

Arrived by taxi at TGC at about 7:15 for my 8:00 game.  My host, Mr. Koichi Itoh, arrived about 7:30.  We had breakfast (I of course had had my breakfast w my cereal at the hotel) and then teed off at 8:00 without bothering to hit balls on the range.  Mr. Itoh is about 74 years old and graduated from Yale in '61.  He spent part of his childhood living in Larchmont NY and we talked about Westchester, etc.  Since his graduation from Yale, he has not lived in the US but visits 3-4x/year as he is a director of several mutual funds.  He is a first class person with a fine sense of humor.  Plays golf very quickly for someone from Japan, and quickly compared to most American's.  Would even keep pace in Scotland.  He allowed how he is often frustrated but the pace of play in Japan.  He also is a former Captain (equivalent to President) of Tokyo GC.  Very very enjoyable morning, even if my game was awful (don't ask for a number).  

Course is very very good.  Currently #93 on GM WW Top 100 and highest rating was #84 in 2007.  Club was founded in 1914 and first course was designed by a founding member, but was on leased land, which caused problems for the club.  A new layout was opened in 1932, known as Asaka which was designed by a renowned British architect C. H. Alison (who designed a number of great number of layouts in USA, Japan, and all around the world).  Alison was a  partner of Harry Colt, and is generally credited for their firm's efforts at TGC and in Japan.  Other USA courses of Alison's include: 

--Century CC, Purchase, NY; 

--Milwaukee CC;

--Kirtland CC, Willoughby, OH

--Knollwood CC, Lake Forest, IL

--Seaside at Sea Island, GA

Prior to WW II, the Japanese government requisitioned and purchased TGC for military use, and TGC merged with Chichibu CC, located at its current site, and the club's vice president (who also was one of Japan's top architects) designed the current layout.  HIH Prince Yahuhiko Asaka was named club President in 1940 (not sure when the title President was changed to Captain).  During WW II, the army requisitioned this layout as well, and it was occupied by the US Army until 1952, when the current property was returned to the Club  Talk about Perils of Pauline!!

The old Alison layout in Asaka has almost a mystical reputation in Japan, almost like C.B. Macdonald's Lido Club in the US.  Many say it was the best design  ever built in Japan (just as many say that about Lido and the USA), and Lido was similarly appropriated by the military for use during WW II (but also had experienced severe financial problems during The Depression).

There are two unusual aspects to TGC, Kasumigaseki CC, and some other top courses in Japan, both relating to Japan's very hot and humid summers.  First is the use of a very hardy strain of Bermuda which is similar to (and I believe is the same as) the kikuyu grass at Riviera in LA.  As a result, the ball sits perfectly teed up on the fairways, and the rough (which is fairly low this time of year) can be punishing.  The second is the presence of two separate greens on each hole...a concept that i believe originated at Kasumigaseki.  Historically, this provided both a bent grass surface (for cooler periods) and a Bermuda  grass surface (for the hot humid months).  More recently, this concept seems to be used to create two different designs on the same piece of land...which does work, but must do wonders for the maintenance budget!!  In any case, TGC rotates the use of these two sets of greens from day to day, and I was fortunate to be there on a day when the championship greens (named "Asaka") were in use.  TGC is in fabulous condition.  The texture and firmness of the sand in its bunkers are among the best I have ever played.  And these bunkers are a highlight of the design...especially on the back nine, perfectly placed, and very reminiscent of those at other Alison and Colt tracks.  

Gil Hanse, probably todays' "king of renovation" completed a major renovation of TGC about 4 years ago and the Asaka greens reflect his work (in fact, Mr. Itoh was responsible for this renovation and the overall Master Plan...still in the works...that the renovation is a part of).  Large and undulating, there are some very difficult pin placements available on these surfaces.  The second set of greens appear to be very good but without the difficult undulations that Hanse created.

I was surprised at the narrowness of some of the fairway landing areas, which seems to detract from the strategic nature of the original design...but certainly increases the difficulty.  Also as best described by a friend in Melbourne, these Hanse greens seem to have a very "Americanized" feel to them...that is not good or bad, just not expected.

Overall, a superb, beautiful, and difficult track...but have decided to reserve judgement until I play some more of Japan's great designs.

The jet lag from the day before seemed to affect my play, as did the warm weather and wearing long slacks in this weather (clubs here are very formal).  As we finished the round, I wondered if I would have the stamina to play Kasumigaseki two hours later.  Mr. Itoh invited me for lunch which was superb.  No time for the "baths" given I had to go over to Kasumigaseki (which is contiguous to TGC).  And storm clouds are forming (actually was a short burst of rain during our lunch).

And I am out of time right now...it is 5am (ahh, the wonders of jet lag) and I must get ready to my game at Kawana this morning.  I owe you some pics from TCC, write ups for Kasumigaseki, my trip from Tokyo to Kawana, and my upcoming play at Kawana.  Not enough time in the day!!  Who the hell laid out this itinerary??  That's OK, I shall plow on.

Email 5/11/2014:

Kasumigaseki Country Club (East)

Mr. Itoh drove me over to Kasumigaseki CC (KCC).  While the two clubs are literally contiguous, because of the size of both properties and traffic it takes about 10-15 minutes to get to KCC.  My KCC host, Masa, is there to greet us at the entrance.  Masa and Mr. Itoh know each other quite well, and it was Masa who asked Mr. Itoh to host me at TGC.  Masa is quite an institution in Japan (I am leaving out his last name so that you folks don't rush to plan a trip like this one resulting in Masa being flooded with requests to arrange play).  Arranging the Asian portion of this trip would have been possible but much more difficult without his help.  He has been a Golf Magazine rater for a while and has completed the GM Worldwide Top 100. 

With Masa at Kasumigaseki.

KCC was founded in 1929 and completed its first course (now the East course) later that year.  In 1932, its second layout (West) was added.  Both were designed by Charles Alison.  In 1957, KCC hosted the Canadian Cup (non-golfers...please do not ask how a Japanese club can host the Canadian Cup...as a Canadian that question) which was won by Torakichi Nakamura and Koichi Ono were won the team competition, while Nakamura won the individual championship.  This was no small feat as other competitors included the likes of Sam Snead and Gary Player.  That started the boom in golf in Japan which as a result, controls a worldwide share of driving ranges equivalent to South Africa's share of diamond mines.

By this time the rain has stopped and we decide to go out to play quickly.  Interestingly, I felt better than I had two hours early and more optimistic about having the stamina to finish the round (so long as we were not struck by lightning...this may ruin the suspense here, but I will tell you now that we were not struck by lightning).  KCC installed two greens on each hole in the 1930's, and I believe it was the first club in Japan to do so.  Fortunately, as with TGC in the morning, we were playing the Championship set.  Played the first three holes as the thunder started to seem to be getting closer, and as we left the third green, our caddy (they carry walkie talkie radios) received a lightning warning from the club.  There was a shelter by the 4th tee so we waited out the storm there...a delay of about 30 minutes.  Interestingly, while the first three holes are good, they didn't seem to be world class.  But here we are looking at the 4th hole...155 from the back...for thirty minutes.  The green on 4 is surrounded by very very deep bunkers  with quintessential sand walls protecting the green...classical Alison, which was also seen at TGC.  Strong hole...world class.  Masa told me the hole had never been altered in all of KCC's renovations (including one by Jim Fazio, which to put it nicely, is generally not considered to be additive to the quality of the course).  Loved this hole and it seemed to me to be the start of the true course.  #5-9 were all excellent holes with classic Alison bunkers and with #5 and 7 having very shallow raised greens...better have good distance control here.  I loved this stretch and it showed...after bogeying 1-3, I was two over for 4-9.  I should also note that while the rain and thunder were gone when the all clear sounded as we were on the 4th tee, the cold front brought with it fierce winds that swirled thru KCC's large and majestic trees.  Probably blowing 25+ mph with stronger gusts.  As the Scots say...nay wind, nay rain, nay golf!!  

The back nine was even better.  #10 is a 177 yd slightly uphill par 3 to a crowned green, with a small beautiful pond between tee and green.  Loved this hole. 

Par 3 #10 at Kasumigaseki

 #14 is a long 595 par 5, to a raised green with a strong back to front slope, false front, etc etc.  And 16 is a brilliant par 3 of 174 yards to a narrow but deep green, again of course totally surrounded by deep bunkers.  Came back in with a 39 for an 80 and was very pleased with that.  And really loved the course.  Very strategic in design with wide fairways and lots of options for most shots...but you need to think through your shots here.  The condition of the course (as with TGC) was close to perfect...firm and fast in general.  Greens at both clubs were very firm but were rolling a little slow.  No question the collection of par 3's is superb to say the least...#4, 10 and 16 are world class (although  10 and 16 are of similar length...but play uphill and downhill respectively) and #7 is an excellent 211 yarder with a very shallow raised green that is tough to hit and hold.  I loved the greens here as they varied beautifully in size and shape with the character of the hole. 

Above three pics from Kasum. but now 4.5 years later, I cannot recall which holes.

I was amazed, given the way I felt in the morning and the tougher weather conditions, how well I played at TGC.  Funny how jet lag works in "waves".  

After the round, we did the "baths".  Let me tell you...I entered as a skeptic but they are truly great.  Absolutely relaxes the muscles, drains the bad stuff out of you, and really relaxes you.  Have to say that while I love the showers at Brookline (as well as those at many other great old clubs), they come in second to the baths.

Masa and I then had a quick dinner (including pizza...which was very good) with the club's GM and head groundskeeper.  They were all set to entertain the IOC the next day (KCC is the venue for the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo).  Took a 30 minute taxi ride back to my cubby hole room at the hotel...and slept most of the ride.  Went to bed early.  Have pictures but no time to transfer and label (Note---pics above of Kasumigaseki were not in original email...added by me for Blog).  Another demerit and notation on my "permanent record card" as teachers used to warn me (with some regularity).

Email 5/14/2014:

Attention!!!

Mr. Rudovsky is awaiting his flight from Kansai Airport (Osaka, Japan) to Seoul, S Korea, scheduled to depart in approximately 40 minutes.  The escalator police are still searching for him, but to date he has eluded their chase.

Yesterday and today in Japan, Mr. Rudovsky successfully completed play at Hirono Golf Club and Naruo Golf Club*.  Hence, the status of his Bucket Lists and epic journey are as follows:

Bucket Lists:

#1--2013 GM Worldwide Top 100---96 of 100 completed, 4 to go (Nine Bridges, S Korea; Shanqin Bay, China; Durban CC, S Africa; and The European Club, Ireland)

#2, #3, and their combination--unchanged since previously reported at 6:30am Japan time on 5/13/14.  If you did not complete your assignment and read this report, better get cracking on it

#4--Every course ever on GM WW Top 100 (or Top 50) since publication commenced in 1979...190 courses ever included in listing, played 172, missing 18 (including 4 listed above in BL #1)

Trip Status:

--Of 14 courses scheduled, 10 have been played and 4 are left.  Mr. Rudovsky reports the finish line is almost in sight
--Prior to this evening's flight:
                        --he has traveled 7,999 miles (approximately) or 25.35% of total anticipated miles of 27,741
                        --he has been on flights originally scheduled for 19 hours 45 minutes, or 25.78% of the journey's anticipated total
                        --has has taken 5 of 17 scheduled flights with the other 12 occurring in the next 6 days and 6 hours

Asked to comment on the quantity of remaining flights, mileage, and time, Mr. Rudovsky was observed making obscene gestures.

Stay tuned folks!!


* Very loose use of the word "successfully" given the quality (or lack thereof) of his play at Naruo.

Email 5/12/2014

Catch up time.  It is now 4:30pm on Monday 5/12 in Japan.  Lots of fascinating news as always, but we take things in proper chronological order.

Status of Bucket Lists

When we last left off, I had returned to the hotel the night of Friday 5/9.  I at that time had played 6 courses (3 in USA, 1 in Canada, and 2 just north of Tokyo.  Vis-a-vis the infamous bucket lists, this put me at:

---BL #1...play 2013 Golf Magazine Worldwide Top 100...93 done, 6 to go.

---BL #2...play current USA Top 100 as per Golf Digest, Golf Week, and Golf Magazine...played 137 and have 7 left

---BL #3...play every course that has ever been rated in top 50 in GD, GW, or GM (and still exist) since their ratings started..there are 163 in this bucket list and I have played 159 and am missing 4

---Note that due to overlap, I am only missing 8 to complete both BL 2 and BL 3

---BL #4...play every course that has ever been on the GM Worldwide Top 100 since this listing started...there are 190 on this BL and as off Friday 5/9 I had played 168 and was missing 22 (including the 6 missing from BL #1).

Journey to Kawana

OK, now that the books are up to date thru Friday, on Saturday morning I took 3 trains from my hotel to Kawana, which is on the Ito peninsula some 80 miles or so from Tokyo.  During this trip, I discovered that while overpacking had minor consequences when taking rental cars, taxi's and flights...it was one major pain in the butt on trains and in train stations.  Wasn't too bad till I got to the Tokyo Central station, where I had to transfer to a bullet train heading south..schlepping thru the station with a couple of two wheeled suitcases (one large and one carry on) as well as a golf bag  in desperate search for elevators.  All went well till I had to take an escalator up to the bullet train platform...where my golf bag got caught in the escalator near the top.  I was able to free up the golf bag, but the escalator's safety mechanism stopped the escalator.  I quickly entered the bullet train and watched as repairmen came out to fix the damage.  I get out of Japan the evening of May 14 and hopefully Japan's FBI will not find me by then, so at that point i will only have to worry about Interpol.

Masa had put me together with Mr. Tatsuo Kato who met me at the Atami train station and drove me to the Kawana Hotel.  Mr. Kato worked for Kawana in sales and PR and retired several years ago.  He knows everyone at the hotel and was very helpful.  As we arrived, the hotel GM greeted us at the door and advised that I could play Sunday at 7:45am which meant that I would not have to worry about catching my flight that evening...big relief.  I had so so many folks working on this that I have no idea who got it done, but it happened and I am very grateful to all.  Mr. Kato gave me a tour of the facility and I kept being greeted like a foreign dignitary.  Not sure if they knew who they were really dealing with but I wasn't about to correct the impression.  We went to over look at the first hole...see attached picture w me thumb at top left...

goes right out to the sea, with a vertical drop of of 48 yards before rising back up slightly to the green.  And again, whatever goes down must come up.  The yardage book gives a topographical chart for each hole, and the 3rd rises 39 yards.  At about the same time I discovered that the Fuji course is walking only...Sunday could be interesting.

Had lunch w Mr. Kato, then went to the room for a nap and a needed massage.  Dinner was good.  Hotel is magnificent but is fairly dated and could use a bit of modernization.  Retired to bed fairly early, thinking about the vertical changes on the Fuji course.

Kawana Fuji Course

After breakfast went out to play Fuji.  Course is another Alison track which became quickly evident because of the superb bunkering.  Completed in 1936 (and one of 2 tracks at the hotel) it hosted on Fuji Sankei Classic event on the Japanese Tour from 1981-2004 with winners there including Tommy Nakajima ('82, '95) Mark O'Meara ('85), Jumbo Ozaki ('86, '87, '89, '90, '93), Brian Watts ('96), Carlos Franco ('98), and Paul Rudovsky ('04)...which is why the event was moved to a new venue.  Just a joke folks to see how many of you read this far.  Highest GM rating to date was #50 in '93 and '95, and it has been a regular on GM's Top 100 since 1991. It is as hilly as any course I have ever played except for a few courses in mountainous areas.  Very tough walk but also very exhilarating.  Views are spectacular both of the sea and of Mt. Fuji (see pics).  Layout is spectacular.  Very clear that Alison did not move much dirt but took advantage of the terrain he was given.

Course is in very very good shape.  Greens a little slow but very firm, fairways fast and firm.  Bunkering is fabulous, as can be seen by wall of sand in front bunker on short par 3 #10 (pic of new best friend, Hiroko my caddy)

...oh, almost forgot to mention that I got up and down from here (put explosion to 3') for a par.  Interesting how different Alison's bunkers are from say Raynor's, yet both are so so good.  Hole layouts fit the land like a veritable glove...even if it means only a billy goat can walk the glove.  Best holes are #6 long uphill sharp dogleg right, #7 short downhill par 4 headed toward sea (pic), 

#10 short par 3 to crested green w deep bunker in front (pic above), #12 long uphill dogleg   par 4 w sea on left (pic back downhill thru trees from green to tee and 11th green left of lighthouse), 

 #14 med length dogleg par 4 with sea and Oshima Island (with a still active volcano and you all remember it well due to its prominent role in several Godzilla movies) in background on approach to green and fierce bunker front left of green (pic),

 #15 way down then way up short par 5 w sea on left to shallow but wide green that falls off sharply behind green (falloff to which I can personally attest) (see pics),

#17 med length but sharply (6% slope) uphill par 4 to crested and well protected green w false front, and #18 short par 4 to crested green on a mound (designed to look like Mt Fuji).

Suffice it to say that I loved this layout...overall too short for today's great players (6701 from tips) but challenging, great fun and fair.  Could play this one every day.  Caught it on a benign day in terms of wind (about 10-12 mph) and am told can be brutal with more usual and stronger winds.  Since (most of) you asked, got up and down from back edge for a 40-39=79...which duly impressed my new best friend Hiroko (whose heart was broken when I told her I was so happily married).  However, my ability to traverse this hilly land did not impress her as much, as she plans to climb Mt. Fuji this summer.

One thing about rating courses and how one's play affects how highly you rate a course.  Obviously, a rater should not allow his good or poor play to impact course ratings.  But the relationship between how one played and one's ratings can be a "chicken or egg" conundrum...did you like the course because you played well, or did you play well because you liked the course (or both)?  So much for existential philosophical thought from yours truly.

Rest of Day

Went to have my post round bath (btw, members of CCNC and TCC..installing bath complexes (separate one needed for women) clearly is an item that should be given careful consideration in the club's capital plan.  After lunch with Mr. Kato, i headed north (with Mr. Kato's considerable help and assistance) to Haneda Airport for my journey to the city of Miyazaki on the island of Kyushu...the most southwestern large island in the Japanese chain.  Am traveling there to play Phoenix Country Club.  Flight was happily uneventful and got to my hotel around 9PM, where I met my playing companions for the next day (Monday):  

--Monte Tachibana...a fellow member of the International Seniors Amateur Golf Society, and who was very helpful in setting up the Japan portion of my jouney;

--Tamio Tachibana...Monte's younger brother, and;

--Toshkatsu Tanaka a friend of theirs.

We enjoyed a quick drink and made it an early night...I was exhausted but felt great otherwise.

Phoenix CC (Monday)

Woke up early started working on this brilliant email.  Then we had breakfast as we watched a strong storm come through.  Left hotel at about 7:45am for short (> 1 mile) trip to Phoenix CC, which is a resort and bit of a "factory" (but a very well run one).  

Rain had pretty much stopped.  Off first tee of Champ Course at 8:35 and by the second hole I realized that this is an example why i lost interest in chasing the top 100 in the 80's. Frankly, very very boring golf.  Holes #1 and #2 and mirror images of each other.  Would have a tough time describing more than 3 holes on the front.  With rough grown in would be a very good, tough tour test, but far far from a great track.  No pics here.  On top of everything else...it started raining again on back nine (which was a better nine with 3-4 good holes) and was pouring by the time we finished.  

Phoenix has 27 holes and the Takachiho and Sumiyoshi nines comprise its championship course and host the Dunlop Phoenix event each Fall.  I went there because Phoenix was on the GM top 100 from '85-'89 with a highest rating of 49 in 1985.  The fact that it once was on the top 100 is a testament to how poorly courses were rated back in the early days of ratings, and the fact that Phoenix has not sniffed a top 100 since is testament to the fact that ratings have improved substantially over the past few decades.

Anyhow, we had a good time slogging thru the rain...our caddy was superb...keeping clubs etc dry for all 4 of us and somehow keeping things straight in very tough conditions.

To Osaka

To baths, a good lunch, and on to airport...fly to Osaka, where when I arrive, it is raining hard (what is forecast for Tuesday at Hirono GC and Wednesday at Naruo GC?...two layouts I am very excited about playing.  Taxi to hotel in Kobe (two nights here...what a relief...can even get some laundry done and go broke in the process).

Awoke to finish off this epic email.  Am caught up, and the skies are clearing :-) :-).  Update on Bucket Lists and trip:

BL#1...now at 95 of 2013 GM worldwide 100...5 to go

BL #4...now at 170 of every course ever on GM worldwide top 100, with 20 to go (including above 5)

Trip---have played 8 of 14...six to go.  More than half way done thru 16+ days of this journey, but have only taken 5 of 17 flights and flown only 7,999 mile out of 27,741 on trip.  Lots more flying to get thru till I see my lovely bride in 8 days.  

On to Hirono today!!

Email 5/15/2014:

Before i get to the events of of Tuesday 5/13, some additional philosophical thoughts and observations (deep ones, at least for me) in random order:

1.  i tried to keep yesterday's email positive and upbeat, and therefore purposely did not mention that i had missed "24" Monday night (which brings to mind another deep question...it is shown on Europe and Asian TV before it is aired in USA, given time zone differences). these news letters may get delayed as i search for it on the web

2. one of your fellow recipients (whose name shall go unmentioned in order to keep him safe from attack) suggested that i expand these missives to include some political and economic insights gathered as i travel the world and speak w other world leaders attempting to play the top 100.  In fact he suggested it in two separate emails.  any others with similar thoughts out there?  would not surprise me.

3.  if i do complete this quest, will I feel like David Duval after he won the Open Championship in 2001, when he said in describing his reaction to achieving a key goal as "is this all there is to this?".  Non-golfers, please do not flood me with questions asking who is David Duval and/or what is the Open Championship.

4. Japan...wonderful country and am starting to have appreciation for some of their customs. two observations:  (a) have stayed in 4 hotels here and this hotel in Kobe is the first one w wi-fi available in the room...i would have thought that Japan was much more advanced technologically, and (b) without fail, every toilet I have seen is equipped with a seat warmer and "spritzer"...thereby showing Japan's advanced technological status.  I realize samples on these two observations are small, but thought it important to pass them along.  Also wanted you folks to see that i have not just been thinking about golf while on this trip.

5. many Japanese golfers play fairly quickly.  however the length of their rounds is much longer than in the US...in many cases because they have their lunch between nines as opposed to after 18.  however, the term "ready honors" has not hit their vocabulary, nor has the phrase "i'm out of the hole and am picking up", nor has the concept of "gimmee putts" been promulgated here.  Perhaps it is because they are so focused on scores and they don't seem to play much "match play".  

6. have played 5 course in Japan and 4 of them (Hirono being the outlier) have metal plates at the bottom of the cups that make a very noticeable "ping" sound when the ball falls in the cup (even after too many strokes).  Only other place i have seen this is at Cabot Links in Nova Scotia (you will recall my mention of Cabot Links in an earlier missive).  The principal (or principle??) creator of Cabot Links saw this on a golfing trip here several six years ago...but he observed it first time on first hole of Tokyo GC when making a birdie...i played the same first hole as my first hole in Japan on this trip when I missed my par putt and tapped in for bogey.  Clearly, this observation belongs in #4 above since it deals with technology.

Now that those thoughts are done...on to yesterday's events.

Tuesday 5/13 at Hirono Golf Club

Have been really looking forward to this and was worried that the rain of Monday night would continue, and possibly wash out Tuesday's round.  But, good luck prevailed and it was clear skies when i awoke. BTW, Japan, I assume because of strong political influence of its small farmers, does not advance its clocks for "Daylight Savings Time".  As a result, sunrise and sunset today are at 4:37 am and 6:38pm.

Was picked up at my hotel by my host, Mr. Kotaro Nakamoto, a 44 year old son of a prominent golfing family here...and a neat kid (when you are my age, 44 is a kid). We drove about 45 minutes to Hirono GC which is generally considered to be the finest golf club in Asia.  It was formed in 1932 and designed by Charles Alison...and the bunkering here generated the phrase "Alison bunkers:"  The course is in absolutely perfect condition...closely cropped fairways offering absolutely perfect lies on the Korai grass (same grass as at Tokyo GC and Kasumigaseki).  The bunkers are very firm (and use wooden rakes with flat "heads" which help to keep them firm) and again superbly placed.  Greens are very firm but receptive to a well struck shot. Course is filled with long par 4's (similar in that way to Quaker Ridge) and very exacting but fair.  Terrain is fairly flat on the front nine and more hilly on the back (like a pancake compared w Kawana) and ravines running thru property are utilized beautifully in the design (similar to the designs at Riviera in Los Angeles and Shoreacres north of Chicago).  These ravines pay an important roll just in front of six greens (holes 1, 3, 4, 9, 15 and 18) and must be carefully considered especially in possible layup situations and at other times trick the player into taking too much club.  As with other Alison greens, there is considerable slope (usually back to front) and the breaks are subtle and difficult to read, as opposed to "buried elephants" often employed by architects today...this tends to make Alison's layouts less punishing for higher handicappers and more challenging for better players...which is a sign of a great design. 

Best holes (there are no weak holes), are:

--#5...152 yard par three over deep deep ravine filled with nasty things to a raised green with good slope from back right to front left and longer carry to right side of green...see pic.  This world famous par 3 was made even more famous by my birdie there on Tuesday;

Hirono's #5 152 yd par 3

--#6...dogleg left 425 yd par 4 with high mound perfectly utilized at the corner of the dogleg, making tee shot semi-blind (Scots have it right as always...shot is only blind the first time ya play it), with a awful ravine to right of fairway if you play tee shot it too safe (this is not the place to be as i can testify given my pbfu...non golfers do not ask).  also, big bunker protects right front of green...see pic

Hirono #6...do not go pin hunting when pin on right side of green

--#7...211 par 3 with carry over some bad stuff to narrow but deep green that is superbly protected by bunkering...pic

Hirono #7---very demanding green, sloping sharply back to front

#8...straight short par 4 with green angles form front left to back right (a la 12 at Augusta) and big tree protecting right side of green...much much tougher than hole's benign looks

#9...new back tee for big events (eg Japan Open) on this 542 yd par 5 dogleg right forces played to hit fade...pic...i was standing on back tee as pic was taken.  must avoid tree trunk bending to left

Hirono #9 Tee shot, thru a shoot and demands a fade

#12...long (595 yd) par 5 that turns right to left and makes great use of angles created by trees on left off tee and fairway and green bunkering

#14...fascinating middle length par 4 (388) whose left dogleg and uphill tee shot combine to create a very sharp hill on left side of fairway that you must carry, or your ball will roll down the hill to the left...pic...

Hirono #13---wonderful Cape Hole...my favorite...MUST get to top of hill.

#15...great 568 yd par 5 bending right to left all the way.  There is a large pine tree protecting the left side of fairway, 315 yds out from back tee, and a long fairway bunker in right rough extending from 265-335 yds off back tee protects the right side of the fairway, where the ideal tee shot needs to be placed.  Fairway ends about 340 out, then restarts after a ravine and some deep fairway bunkers, that must be carried or else.  Finally, the elevated green is surrounded by deep deep bunkers front left and right.  Otherwise, a piece of cake. I messed up by not getting a photo.

#18...strong finishing hole 459 yds dogleg left w tee shot needing to carry ravine on left and some fairly intimidating fairway bunkers on left side.  Green is elevated.  pic.

All in all, a very stern champ test (although a little short at 7169 yd par 72) that is great fun from regular tees.  Was an honor and privilege to play here.  Only obvious design fault is high mix of holes doglegging or turning left (8), versus (2) moving right.  Wonder if lefties are doing particularly well in Japan Open?

Anyhow, I am not a lefty (in either sense of the word) and hit the ball pretty well but had a few awful shots and mental errors...resulting in an 87 (BTW, Japan has just implemented a course rating slope system and this is the first course i have seen with it posted...75.8/147 from back and 72.1/135 from reg tees where we played from).  Two good birdies (5 and 9) but 5 doubles :-(.  May be getting a little fatigued for reasons I can't figure out.

I gather that through the years, in an effort to "clean-up" the looks of Hirono, many of these bunkers have had their rough unkept edges replaced with cleaner borders.  I loved this course but believe it could be made even greater by reverting to its old look...and would think that Coore and Crenshaw would be perfect architects for such a renovation.

Rest of Tuesday 5/13

After baths, Kotaro drove me back to my hotel, but on the way he stopped to show me Kobe Golf Club, founded 1903 and the first golf club in Japan (his father Dee is a member).  Incredible place...preserved like it was 110 years ago.  Course stretches out to 4,049 yards from the tips, at par of 61...sorry folks, couldn't find its slope rating.  That places it well short of the "monster" Kissena Park Golf Course in Queens NY that stretched out to about 4600 yards with a par of 64.  Kobe is nothing short of a museum piece.  Neat to have seen it and if I come back to Japan, have to go play it.  Here are some pics of 18 a strong 258 yd par 4:

Kobe GC fairway #18 running down and left board green

Kobe GC 18th green

Got back to the hotel and took a short nap before going to dinner w Kotaro.  Then back to hotel and should have gone to bed but instead starting composing this masterpiece for you, my devoted audience.  Hope you feel guilty of depriving me of much needed rest!

Wednesday brings the close of the Japanese chapter of this "book" with a visit to Naruo GC just north of Osaka.  Looking forward to it as I have heard it is really special and underrated.  More later...

Email 5/15/2014:

Email just sent to you was held up due to laptop issues last night.  Advice...do not try to fix laptop setting issues while you are really tired.  In any case, everything is OK now.

Quick update.  Played Nine Bridges today...so that's 11 of 14 rounds completed and 97 of 100 from 2013 GM Top 100 Worldwide.  Am at Jeju airport in Korea, waiting for a flight that departs in 70 minutes for Shanghai...then after 3 hour layover on to Hainan Island China, and the  new Coore-Crenshaw designed Shanqin Bay.  Owe you write ups of Naruo and Nine Bridges.

Email 5/19/2014:

Am almost 3 hours into a 10:40 flight from Joburg to Zurich (connecting there to Dublin) and just woke from one of the best 2 hour 30 minute "power naps" of my life!  Feels great, but will need more sleep later for that to last!  This latest chapter is intended to catch-up on my delinquent course reporting, with comments and pics from Naruo (Japan), Nine Bridges (South Korea), Shanqin Bay (China), and Durban (South Africa).  Doubt I will do all four before I get to Ireland but let's see how far I do get.

Naruo Golf Club, Wednesday May 14

As I was at my Kobe hotel for 2 days, was able to do laundry...and this would be my last opportunity till arriving home on May 20.  Mr. Masazumi Suzuki picked me up at my hotel in Kobe and we drove eastbound about 50 minutes to Naruo GC located north of Osaka.  We left the hotel at 7am and had zero traffic all the way, which was quite a surprise.  Upon driving into the club, it quickly became apparent that Naruo never had the luxury of a huge plot of land, as had Tokyo GC, Kasumigaseki, and Hirono.  As is often the case in such circumstances, constraints/limited resources force people to become more innovative and creative, and that reaction is clearly obvious at Naruo.  One of my playing partners, Mr. Takuji Soda is not exactly your average player...having won Naruo's Club Championship in 8 of the past 10 years.  Naruo's present course opened in 1930 originally designed by the Scottish Crane brothers.  In 1930, Charles Allison was retained to improve and fortify the design, and his bunkering and green complexes are easy to recognize, while being so difficult to negotiate.

We started on #10, a long and strong par 4 of 476 yards (unless noted all yardages from the back), straight and downhill off the tee and then slightly up to a well protected amply sized green.  This was a shocker given the course is only 6612 yards (par 70).  As the round progressed, the wonderful variety of holes became very evident..  For example, while #10 is wide open, #13 is an uphill, very tight short par 4 of 310 yards with a tiny tiny green sitting raised up above five punishing bunkers. Two very different holes, each well proportioned for its length, and both fitting together as part of a wonderful design.  Best other holes on the back nine are 15-18, with 15 being the best of the lot.  This is an uphill 189 yard par 3 whose green is superbly protected by 8 deep bunkers (see pic taken from trees 40 yards from and left of green).  

Naruo Green #15 from left of green

I hit a wonderful (for me) 3 utility which landed about 2 yards short of the green front, and proceeded to trickle back down the hill about 10 yards (at least it avoided the bunkers).  

The front nine was just as good. The first hole provides an exquisite start...with a small pond and beautiful Japanese garden sitting just off the first tee. Best holes are #4, 5 and 8.  Four is another uphill par 3 (207 yards) again protected by Mr. Allison's bunkering (see pic), 

Naruo #4...uphill par 3

and 5 is a 394 yarder, down hill off the tee and up to a green in an ideal setting, and protected by trees sitting at the base of the hill, about 50 yards short of the green (pic).  

Naruo Par 4 5th hole...love the way the ground "moves"

Naruo is a fabulous example of the architectural concept of first finding the right green setting(s) and then working backward to locate appropriate land for tees and fairways, and #5 is a perfect example of this.  #8 is a long 437 yd par 4 that keeps turning further and further left. It plays much longer than its yardage because the tree line along the left forces the player to play out to the right.  The somewhat raised green is beautifully protected by the left tree line as well as an Allison bunker, perfectly placed front right.  Sorry, no pics of #8.  I didn't take enough pictures.  

Overall, I really loved Naruo...even though my game was poor that day...ended up with an 87 even with a strong finish at 7-9.  Hit a lot of good shots but too many disasters and short game was poor. Hopefully that was a function of jet lag.  While too short for today's tour players at 6612 yards (par 70), it does mix in some tough long par 4's  (8, 10, 18) and certainly has 18 different holes...all of which blend together so so well.  Wonderful flow, and every hole is fun to play...and a good number are challenging is well.  Absolutely a course one could play every day and never be bored.  Made it to Top 100 in 1995 and peaked at #60 in 2001, then started a gradual decline, falling off the list in after 2009.  If there are "faults" with Naruo, they are (1) the over abundance of holes turning right to left (7 versus 3 the other way) and (2) the continues use of Kauai greens...an thick leaf version of bermuda.  In this person's opinion, despite these shortcomings, based on its wonderful design, it should be back on, for sure.

On to South Korea 

We finished the round about 2:45 and went to the baths, which again rejuvenated my tired aching muscles.  I had planned to go to the international airport by taxi (about 60-70 miles.) with a southbound route that required going right through downtown Osaka and facing potential traffic problems.  Taku strongly suggested that I take a taxi to the downtown train station and a fast express train to Kansai Airport...then he heard from Mr. Suzuki about the amount of luggage I had (golf bag, one large suitcase, and one roll-on smaller suitcase), and he rolled his eyes.  Then he said he lived near the train station and could go to the train station with me to assist me with the luggage and purchasing the correct ticket and getting to the correct track.  I said I could manage, and he looked at me and quickly concluded that I could not, and insisted.  Who was I to argue?  As he drives a Telsa, which could not fit any one of my pieces of luggage, we still got the taxi and went in a two car caravan.  No real traffic on the way, and getting thru this very large station was a breeze with his help.  I would have been in deep deep trouble.  He got me to the track in plenty of time and we said goodbye..after I extended him an invitation to visit us in NC or MA.  Hope he can make it...good guy and a "new best friend".

Train ride and flight to Seoul were happily uneventful.  I stayed at a hotel in the airport in Seoul, arriving there at 10:05pm. Repacked and got organized for the next two tough days, then to bed.  Alarm set for about 4:00am as my flight to Jeju Island departs Thursday May 15 at 6:30am.  Yes, you have heard of Jeju Island before.  It lies about 75 miles off the southwest corner of the Korean peninsula..and was the destination of the ferry that capsized about 3 weeks ago, tragically killing about 300...mostly high school students.  Flight landed on time and I took a taxi for the 40 minute drive southbound to The Club at Nine Bridges, located near the center of the Island. The next day and a half contained potential for problems given my agenda, as I had little leeway.  I was scheduled to play by myself at 9am, and my flight off of Jeju left at 3:40pm...taking me to Hainan Island, China (transferring at Shanghai).  I was warned it was risky to schedule this part of the trip so tightly, but that was the only way I could make it work.  And, as the taxi headed south into the mountains on Jeju, the fog grew dense and my plan looked to be in serious pooh.

The Club at Nine Bridges, Thursday May 15

As the taxi neared the club, the fog quickly broke and my blood pressure dropped back down. We pulled up to the magnificent clubhouse at 8:40am, and were greeted by Albert Kim, who works for a company providing marketing services to Nine Bridges and other top clubs (especially in the Far East).  I was put in touch with the head of that company back some four months ago and they had set up my play at Nine Bridges, which is one of their prime clients.  Albert advised that there was no need to rush as the club was not very busy that day, and I would be the first golfer off the Highland Nine (traditionally the back nine) at say 9:30, and should easily be able to finish play by 1pm and leave the club by 1:30 in time to catch my flight.  Had a quick breakfast...yup, with my cereal...did some stretching, as was off the 10th tee at 9:15.

Nine Bridges was completed in 2001.  It has been the host for the World Club Championships (a better ball competition between a select number of clubs on the latest Golf Magazine Top 100 Listing) for most of the years since its inaugural event in 2002.  Nine Bridges was named to the Top 100 in 2005 (position #95) and had progressively moved up the listing since then and is currently #45. It is a beautiful course in a magnificent setting surrounded by mountains.  In some ways, the setting reminded me of Gleneagles in Scotland, host for the upcoming Ryder Cup in 4 months.  However, since I haven't been to Gleneagles since either 1970 or 1981 (I know I went there in '70, and am not sure if I went back during a long trip to the British Isles in '81), that memory may be somewhat hazy.  Was very lucky weather wise here.  It poured rain all the day and night before my arrival. Course was damp as I r=teed off but dried beautifully.  Lots of sand during construction and good design makes for excellent drainage...a necessary ingredient for a great track.

Best holes (in order of my play) are 18, 3-5, 8 and 9.  #18 is a downhill dogleg left 554 yard par 5 with a split fairway (shorter left side starts about 330 yards off back tee...but this is downhill and leaves about 215 to an island green).  A stand of large trees divides the fairway.  More conventional route makes it a three shotter for about all to the island green.  On the Creek or front nine, #3 is a slightly downhill par 5 (550 yards) turning slightly left.  It fit my eye nicely.  #4 is a beautiful 416 yard par 4 doglegging left and then sharply down hill.  I misunderstood my caddy's instructions and played too far right, leaving an impossible 2nd shot.  Trick is to take a risk with your tee shot, hugging the bunker at the left corner of  dogleg, thereby shortening the hole and providing a much better angle in to the green. #5 is 428 yard dogleg left par 4, with water protecting the left side of green.  #8 is 345 yard uphill par 4...with green sitting right at the crest of a hill protected by bunkers left and right..  Finally #9 is 558 yard par 5 turning to left and uphill to green. Ended round here with a 10 footer for birdie which followed a well played par on eight...always good to end a round on a positive note, even if the ending number totaled 84. Realize late in the round that during my taxi ride in the morning, we kept going uphill. Turns out Nine Bridges is at some 3000 feet.  Too bad, thought I had found the fountain of youth with some added distance.  No such luck, and it meant I flew some greens early in the round.  The mind ain't working too good without much sleep.  Pic is from 9th tee...we were in such a hurry, I forgot to take pictures until the round was almost over.  

Went in clubhouse, showered, and had quick lunch.  Met the club's GM and complimented him on both the course and the club.  It is a very special setting.  Thanked Albert for everything, and by 1:25 was off for Jeju and my 3:40 flight.  No problems getting to airport and flight to Shanghai was on time.  This was my visit time to Shanghai (really just to PVG airport)...which feels close to the size of an entire middle sized city.  It is simply huge and sparklingly new.  Boarded my flight to Haikou on the north end of Hainan Island, very much looking forward to playing Shanqin Bay, the Coore Crenshaw course which opened 2 1/2 years ago and has garnered string strong reviews.