Saturday, October 31, 2015

23. Trip to Asia---First Two Days in South Korea

Trip to Asia---First Two Days in South Korea

Slept in a little late on Wednesday 10/28 (had stayed again at Cal Club) and headed to SFO around mid-day.  Flight left right on time at 1:55pm…about 12.5 hours, was smooth flight and we came in a few minutes early (about 6:45 on Thursday).  I was met at the airport by someone from one of the clubs I am visiting and he drove me about 65-70 miles to my hotel (basically east of Seoul).  It was drizzling slightly and chilly but the traffic was light.  I think I slept about half of the drive.  Hotel is nice, answered some emails, and got to bed around 10:30pm (+13 hours ahead of EDT).  BTW, a few of you emailed me back after my last post to say “congratulations on hole in one”.  Obviously, them folks read the cover email and not the blog.  Their names shall be kept a secret (there probably is a privacy law prohibiting the release of the names) but rest assured, it will be noted on their “permanent record cards” along with transgressions in grades 1-12 (I am safe in that regard, no more room on my card).

Friday morning woke early (too early, but the eyes had toothpicks in them).  Did some work (planning next trip etc etc) and took taxi to Haesley Nine Bridges around 11am.

Haelsey Nine Bridges October 30, 2015:  Long time readers of these works of literature (which is exactly what they are…you can add your choice of adjectives) will recall my journey around the world in May 2014 to complete the 2013 Golf Magazine Worldwide Top 100 listing.  Course #97 for me was Nine Bridges located on Jeju Island about 50 miles off the southern coast of the Korean Peninsula.  About six years ago, Haesley opened on the Peninsula under the same ownership and management.  It is a very private club (seven figures US$ to join) and currently has 150 members (are Korean citizens) of which, some 40 are also members of Nine Bridges on Jeju. 

Haesley was included as #72 on Golf Digest’s initial Worldwide 100 Greatest published in early 2014.  It had never before appeared in any of the other World 100 listings.  I believe GCD will be issuing a new Worldwide list in the upcoming 3-4 months, and it will be interesting to see how Haesley moves (if at all).

Haesley is among a new class of courses built in the last 5-15 years in the Far East which are focused almost as much on the clubhouse as on the golf course itself.  Shanqin Bay on China’s Hainan Island is another example and this trip will bring me to at least two other examples.  The latticed woodwork that flows through the building (while providing structural support) is close to overwhelming (see pic below).  The main clubhouse incorporates some 245,000 sq. ft. of floor space (including underground parking).



If you are interested, go to:

 http://www.archdaily.com/490241/nine-bridges-country-club-shigeru-ban-architects

Being somewhat of a traditionalist (i.e. old f--t), I find myself somewhat “taken aback’ by this trend (and make no mistake, there are certainly prime examples of it here in the USA and in Europe).  On the other hand, some of the grand old establishments of yesterday that are still standing were, when built, the functional equivalent of what we see with this trend today.  Yes, I am talking about clubhouse such as the R&A in St. Andrews, Newport CC, Winged Foot, National Golf Links of America, Seminole, Congressional, etc…they are all magnificent structures today, but were they viewed as “over-the-top” when they were built?  And if they were, it is interesting how over time they have become, for lack of a better term, “more normal.”

It should also be noted that both eras have produced their share of understated clubhouses at great clubs…such as Peachtree, Cypress Point, Fishers Island, Camargo, and Somerset Hills of yesteryear and Sand Hills and Chechessee Creek of this era.

In any case, It was fun being treated like royalty!  Had a very good lunch with Chris Ahn, who is CEO of both Nine Bridges clubs (on left in oil above), and had the opportunity to meet Chairman Sohn.

Played with Mr. Nick Park (on right in pic above), a very fine young man (46 years old but looks like he is 25…perhaps in comparison to moi).  I very much enjoyed the course.  It is in great condition and fits very naturally into its very hilly terrain.  The greens are in superb condition…due in part to the installation of sub air and hydronics systems under all 18.  Additionally, Rick told me that in the event of cold weather overnight, the greens are all covered with mats to avoid frost.  Yes, this is a routine practice with Bermuda greens to avoid keep the temperature of the soil and grass up to avoid death of the Bermuda…but these greens are Bent grass and can easily survive frost.  So no expense has been or is spared here.

The course is very very good.  The greens are tough…lots of double breaks and very subtle…our woman caddy read them superbly.  Started off with three straight pars and thought I might do something good today.  That started to fall apart on #5, a slightly uphill par 5 (545 yards from tips) after a perfect drive and 3-wood…when I hit a so-so 8-iron to a pin sitting on top of a knob at the front of the green…only a perfect shot would have worked with this pin setting and mine was far from that.  Got back on my game starting on 7, and was playing well until after good a birdie on #15 (stiffed an 8 iron to 2’)…and I got hit with what I thought was simply a PBFU (Post Birdie F--- Up), but it seemed more like a jet lag crash…total in scope.  Finished out with three straight double bogeys (would have been worse without equitable stroke control...non-golfers, don’t ask, too complicated).  I was simply exhausted.

There are a good number of superb holes at Haesley, including #4, 7, 9, 10, 11, 13, 16 and 18 (I think regarding 16 and 18…as noted I was too exhausted to see straight!  Holes 9 and 10 are very very dramatic:

--#9 is a 440 yard, down hill off the tee, then a second shot into a green with a large lake fronting the green (two tiered green with tier on left about 4’ lower then right tier…sitting on top of a stone wall) and the lake comes into play on both your tee shot (which requires some thought regarding what club to play off the tee) and approach;

--#10 is a drivable short par 4 of 357 yards, doglegs left and and about the only flat hole on the track.  It has an island green and the fairway is also an island.  Great risk reward hole with real trouble all around the green

This is a course that you really need to get top know, as there are pin placements that you simply must avoid hitting toward. 

Bunkers were a little disappointing…very low edge around them.  Otherwise, excellent course.   Have to see some of the others here before I decide for sure if it is Top 100 material or not.  My immediate sense is no, but not that far off.  Too many “conventional” holes I think.  More as I think about it.

Got plenty of sleep that night and on October 31, had the day off (not my idea…very hard to get a tee time at a private club on weekends as many of the members want to play on those days).  Need the time to catch up on sleep…and had a very good dinner at a very small restaurant (that I would never be able to find again) with people form Whistling Rock, which I play tomorrow 11/1.


More in a couple of days…

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