Thursday, February 9, 2017

69. Cabo, Mexico, January 21-28, 2017






Cabo, Mexico, January 21-28, 2017

About three years ago, Pat and I joined ISAGS (International Seniors Amateur Golf Society).  ISAGS runs two major events per year, each about a week long.  In 2015 we attended their event at Fancourt Resort in South Africa and signed up for this year’s Cabo del Sol in Cabo, Mexico.

ISAGS truly is an international organization with member from USA, Canada, Mexico, GB&I, Continental Europe, Japan, Hong Kong, China, Australia, South Africa, and many other countries.  These trips are superbly organized and run and we have made a good number of friends on them. 

Cabo is located at the southern tip is the Baja Peninsula which I would guess is the longest peninsula in the world (about 1000 miles driving and 800 miles as the crow flies).  Baja consists mostly of mountains and desert and for years attracted ocean fishermen who trolled off Baja’s western coast fishing for Marlin, etc.  The Cabo area was “discovered” as an ideal resort area for golf due princibally to fabulous weather.  Prior to the 1990’s, there was not much going on in Cabo.  Today it is a Mexican version of the Palm Springs/Palm Desert area in California.  American started flocking to the Cabo area in the 1990’s (both as second homes and permanent retirement locations) as golf courses proliferated.  You should note that Mexicans will generally advise that it is far from typical of the country of Mexico.

Cabo del Sol is a 36 holes resort sitting on the Bay of Cortez (eastern coast of Baja) with two courses, the Ocean Course designed by Jack Nicklaus (opened in 1994) and the Desert Course designed by Tom Weiskopf (opened in 2001)…and plenty of room for more.  While a couple of courses existed in the area before the Ocean Course opened, it really started the boom.

Our plan for the Cabo portion of the trip was to stay at the Sheraton near Cabo del Sol for 7 days while playing in the ISAGS event and then move about 10 miles southwest to Diamante (on Baja’s Pacific or western coast) to play its Dunes Course (designed by Davis Love III) and its El Cardonal Course (Tiger Woods’ first course).   More on Diamante later. 

I had previously made two previous trips to Cabo for golf.  The first was in November 2013, when I flew in and stayed on the ground for 25 hours during which time I was able to play Diamante-Dunes and the Ocean Course (both of which were included on the Golf Magazine 2013 World 100 and which were my 92nd and 93rd on my quest to complete my first World 100).  Then in April 2016, Cabo was my first stop (to play JWN’s Quivera and Tom Fazio’s Querencia) on a round the world trip that took me to Cabo, Australia (to play Ellerston), China’s Hainin Island (Shanqin Bay and Mission Hills-Lava Fields), UAE (Abu Dhabi GC), and Edinburgh Scotland (Gleneagles-Centenary and Dalmahoy-East). 

Cabo-Ocean Course, January 22, 2017:  After opening in 2004, Ocean premiered as #68 on the next GM’s World Top 100 (1995) and while it has continued on the list ever since, it position has dropped and most recently was #100 in 2015.  Among all World Top 100 lists tracked by moi, its highest position was #60 on the initial (2006) www.top100golfcourses.com listing (where Ocean has also seen a slow drop to its current #95).  Golf Digest’s 2016 World Top 100 rated Ocean as #70.  From the tips it plays 7091 yards (par 72).

Based on my three rounds this trip, I believe Ocean is one of Jack Nicklaus’ best designs.  It is built both on the desert sitting well above the Sea of Cortez and down along the shore.  Holes 5-7 and 16-18 flow down to or sit alongside the shore and are very very dramatic (and well designed).  The course starts well up in the desert for holes 1-3, then 4 is a downhill par 5 that “transitions” from the desert to the shore.  At that point, the course moves uphill into the desert, when it starts heading back down to the beach on another downhill par 5 transition hole #15. 

My favorite holes were the two par 5 transition holes (#4 and 15), the six shoreline holes (#5-7 and #16-18), as well as # 10 and, 11, 13, and 14.  Photos and explanations are below.

Third shot over arroyo on Ocean #4 transition hole

From back tee on 490 yd par 4 Ocean 5th hole  downhill turning right and heading toward Sea of Cortez

Ocean #6 par 3 184 yards with Sea of Cortex to left

Ocean #13 par 3 213 yards downhill to wide but shallow green with arroyo in front
Ocean #14 366 yards with arroyo to left, tight driving area, and small green

Tee shot on 447 yard #16 Ocean heading down to Sea of Cortez

Dramatic (and challenging) tee shot on par 3 178 yard #17 Ocean
Tee shot on Ocean #18 430 yard par 4

Approach shot on Ocean #18



I walked away liking Ocean more than my reaction when I played here in 2013.  My sense is that it belongs somewhere around #90-100 in the world.  While I hit the ball fairly well, I had real issues reading the greens and my putting was poor at best.  Lowest score was 81.

Cabo-Desert Course, January 23, 2017:  Sitting above the Nickaus Ocean Course is Weiskopf’s Desert Course (should the resort be renamed Cabo del OSU, and should John Cook be asked to design the next course?).  It has never been included on any World 100 or any of Golf Digest’s Top 100 Overseas lists.  It stretches out to 7049 yards.  While the course never gets within 200 yards of the shoreline, there are views of the somewhat distant Sea of Cortez from most holes. 

I liked the course but it certainly is not of World 100 potential.  It is a good Weiskopf course but not one of his best.  Sorry about this but no pictures taken.  Best holes are:

            #6—uphill par 4 of 403 yds.  Drive should be over desert and rocks on left edge of fairway to blind part of fairway.  Then uphill to a deep but narrow green with a false front;

            #9—dogleg left uphill 502 yd par 5 to highest point on the course…going for it in two requires your drive to carry a bunker at the inside of the dogleg and carry 270 yards…green is raised with false front and well bunkered;

            #16---234 yd slightly downhill par 3 to very large green expending to back left (and sloping from back-left to front-right); front of green’s left side is protected by a desert arroyo and three bunkers;

            #18---downhill 427 yd par 4 with creek crossing the fairway in two places and water front and left of green…and a wonderful view of the Sea of Cortez in the distance.

Diamante-Dunes, January 28, 2017:  Back in May 2016 I had arranged for the developer of Diamante (Ken J.) to play Brookline with Roger Clemens and a friend from Houston.  Clemens was in Boston for a Red Sox event and he and Ken are long time friends.  Ken is a fellow member of the Golf Magazine panel.  Ken reciprocated by allowing Pat and me to play both Diamante courses this weekend (with two other friends) and housing us in one of their villas for two nights.  We invited a fellow ISAGS member, Ron L. of Hong Kong to join us ands asked Ron to pick a 4th player for both days (as Ron’s wife does not play golf).  As Ron had set up my play at Ellerston last April, and had hosted me at Hong Kong GC a year ago, it was good to be able to reciprocate.

On Saturday we played Dunes along with another ISAGS member, Steve H. from Sydney, Australia.  In small world category, Steve had hosted Fergal O’Leary at The Australian a month earlier.

The Dunes Course, which opened in 2010, was designed by Davis Love III and has been a “regular” on most World Top 100 listings since its opening, with its rating (#38) being on the 2015 Golf Magazine list.  From the tips it plays to 7022 yards (par 71).  It is challenging, fun, and spectacular.  Featuring wide fairways, positioning is still critically important if the player wants a decent shot at the pin on his approach.  Since my visit in late 2013, there have been a few changes made to the course, related to the elimination of #18.  A new short par 3 (172 yards) was added and this one is a beauty.  The small multi level green also slopes from back right to front left and can be accessed by playing right on your tee shot and letting the ball trundle down to the green surface…however, a recently added deep pot bunker at the green’s right front corner means you had been be sure you clear that bunker with you approach shot…and that leaves a landing area about 15 yards deep.

Started really playing well here…went out in 36 (1 over par), but the ugly twin showed up on the back and ended with a 45 on the back.  Frustrating!!  But despite this, I have a group of favorite holes, including some that beat me up badly (remember…golf’s primary purpose is to satisfy one’s masochistic needs).  These favorites include:

            #3—par 4 of 394 yards, downhill off tee and then uphill to heavily sloped green perched on top of a sand dune;  hole turns left but fairway slopes left to right (reverse camber);

            #4—376 yard par 4, can be played two ways…drivable with helping wind (tornado might make this work for me) with tough risk/reward equation by playing directly toward green, or play on left fairway then uphill to semi blind green (that is shallow from that angle) but do not be long as your recovery will be almost impossible to stop;

            #7—292 par 3 (no typo…I played from 223), slightly downhill to green sitting in a dune and open and inviting; green slopes from back left to front right (see pic);
Diamante Dunes #7 par 3 292 yards (no typo)


            #10—see above

            #12—211 yard uphill par 3 to a green perched on the highest dune on the property…see pic which says it all;
 
Diamante Dunes #12 uphill par 3
            #13—516 yd par 5 which is wild and not perfect…uphill off tee and at top of slope (in driving area), player looks down at fairway sloping sharply from right to left and then uphill to a wide but shallow green; me thinks the fairway slope from left to right needs to be dampened as most second shots end in the same place (see pics);


Dunes #13 uphill blind tee shot leading to...

Second shot #13--too much right to left slope??

Third shot to elevated shallow green on #13

            #15—587 yard straightaway par 5 (played directly into wind); very narrow with trouble in the dunes on both sides…calls for three superb shots to hit green in regulation (I hit 2.8 and ended with a double bogey, but still love the hole);

            #18—590 yard par 5 with Pacific Ocean and beach to the right and green sitting high on dune; plays with the wind and very playable but tough; slope behind green designed to cause long approach shots to come back onto the green, but somehow this “mechanism” did not work on my approach L

All in all a true World Top 50!!

Diamante-El Cardonal, January 29, 2017:  When I played Dunes in November 2013 I could see the bulldozers shaping El Cardonal in the distance.  The course was finished and officially opened in December 2014 and is Tiger Woods’ first completed design anywhere (two earlier courses that were started or announces…in Dubai and South Carolina were killed by the combined punches of the 2008 financial crisis and the 2009 fire hydrant crisis.  As a side note, readers will recall that in late October 2016 I played Tiger’s second completed course, Bluejack National outside of Houston and loved both the course and the club.

First the name…El Cardonal is a form of cactus prevalent in Baja (see picture).  

Second the course…it is a very good design.  The fairways are generally wide and the course is strategic in design.    However, there is no question that the Dunes Course was built on a better piece of land.  The dunes closer to the ocean provide a much more dramatic environment both visually and in terms of shot values.  More importantly, the condition of the fairways at El Cardonal left something to be desired.  The fairways are bein g watered with an automated sprinkler system, but they were built with dramatic rolls and bumps.  As a result, it appears that the water is running off the elevated spots and the valleys between are very soft and wet.  The course was clearly designed to be played firm and fast but these conditions are not present.

Best holes include:

            #2—208 yard par 3 (see pic) slightly downhill to large green protected by a deep front bunker; green slopes back right to front left;


            #4—483 par 4 doglegs right and proceeds uphill to raised green; tee shot must shirt two fairway bunkers and long approach must avoid bunker on right side (and of course make it up the hill);

            #13—475 yard par 4 dogleg right…superb cape hole leaving player with the quandary of how much too chew on his or her drive

            #16—154 yard par 3 over deep arroyo to wide but shallow green with only a small bailout zone just over the center of the green…very “cute “ hole (and that is meant as a compliment) that is quite unexpected on this 7363 yard course.

Hopefully the conditioning issues will be resolved….as the basic design here is very good.

After the round, Pat and I had a chance to meet with Ken J. over lunch.  Hearing how he sheparded this development through the 2008 financial crisis was nothing short of fascinating (his bank was Lehman Brothers!!).

Monday, January 30, 2017

68. More links regarding Wolf Point


If you are interested in other information about Wolf Point, go to the following links:

1.  For Ran Morrissett's superb description of the course:

2.  For a quick you tube video:

3.  For the views of Adam Lawrence, editor of Golf Course Architecture Magazine:

4.  For the views of its architect, Mike Nuzzo:

67. Early Winter 2017 Trip: Houston/Cabo/California

Early Winter 2017 Trip: Houston/Cabo/California

In early 2014, we joined the International Seniors Amateur Golf Society (“ISAGS”), a group of old farts like us, age 55 years and older (we very easily qualified) from all over the world.  ISAGS runs a couple of major events per year and devoted readers of this blog will recall our trip to South Africa in April 2015.  This year, the destination was set as Cabo del Sol at the southern end of the Baja Peninsula in Mexico.  I had been to Cabo twice before (November 2013 and April 2016) while conquering various fearsome buckets lists and had played 4 courses there, three of which had been included on one or more World 100 lists (Cabo del Sol-Ocean by Jack Nicklaus, Diamante-Dunes by Davis Love III, and Querencia by Tom Fazio).

The ISAGS event would take about 6 days and we quickly decided to visit Houston on the way, and several places in California after our visit to Cabo (as I writer this epic piece of literature, we are about half way through the trip).

With plans for a 5:50am (Pat had the same reaction that you just had) on Thursday 1/19, we decided to stay at a hotel near Raleigh-Durham Airport to avoid having to wake up around 2:30am.  The flight went well except it was fairly bumpy as we approached Houston…a harbinger of the weather we would see for the next 2 days.  The plan was to stay with our friends Linda and Saul P. for two days, and play golf with them at Shadow Hawk GC on Thursday.  However, a mere 5.5” of rain the day before seemed to have affected playing conditions at Shadow Hawk and it ended up closing till at least Sunday.  I would have liked to play Shadow Hawk again (have played it about 5-6 times) but it was not to be.  Instead, we caught up with our goings on and I got dragged to the mall to walk around and not do much.  Could have been worse, might have spend some $$. 

SHGC opened in 1999 and was designed by Rees Jones.  While it has not appeared on any World or USA Top 100, it did host the USGA’s Mid-Amateur Championship in 2011.  Saul and Linda joined SHGC around 2000 just before Saul retired from Exxon Chemical, where he was National Sales Manager for polyethylene.  In the late 1990’s I purchased literally hundreds of tons of polyethylene from Exxon and very much enjoyed hondling Saul out of a penny or two per pound.  Bring bright, honest and fair, Saul was fun to deal with; that said, I am smart enough not to enquire if those feelings went two ways.

Thursday evening we had dinner with Linda & Saul and Tara & David W. (you will of course remember David, who took me around to Bluejack National, Barton Creek, and Briggs Ranch during my last trip to TX in late October and early November 2016.  David had set up Wolf Point Ranch for this trip.  Was great to meet his bride and provide proof to Saul and Linda that I am not the only golf nut in the world.  Me thinks they now understand!!

Wolf Point Ranch, Texas, January 20, 2016: David picked me up at 6:15 Friday morning and we headed west to Port Lavaca, TX with Leigh E., another Golf Digest rater and qualified nut.  This was Leigh’s first trip to WR…David has been out to it several times.  The drive took about 2:30; Port Lavaca lies near the Gulf of Mexico coast about half way between Houston and San Antonio.  The weather was very overcast and the forecast called for rain starting in the early afternoon, so some good luck would prove necessary.

As we neared the property, the landscape appeared to be very uninteresting (to put it nicely).  The terrain was dead flat and covered with limited scruffy vegetation.  The golf course occupies about 250 acres (102 acres of mowed fairways!)  in the center of a 1200 acre cattle ranch (think of the cattle ranch as a “bagel” surrounding the course in the center).  As you drive into the ranch (thereby crossing the bagel) the scenery does not exactly remind one of the some of the beautiful settings of some of the world’s great tracks.  Golf Digest’s ratings system allocates 12.5% of the rating to “Aesthetics”…so as we drove thru the cattle ranch I kiddingly asked Leigh and David what their Aesthetics rating would be.  However, once one gets to the golf course itself, its natural beauty becomes obvious…including the way the outer limits of the course “blend” into the cattle ranch.  There is an unusual beauty to this place that is similar to the sense of beauty at The Old Course in St. Andrews and Sand Hills GC in the Nebraska Sandhills.

The terrain of the golf course is not anything like the surrounding property.  A 12-13 acre lake was created which impacts play on holes 1, 9, and 10.  And the earth moved to create the lake was used to create three rises on the property (the tallest of which is about 20’ high and is where the owner (Al S.) built his home right next to the 1st tee…high enough to provide more than sufficient elevation to deal with a 100 year storm surge…and this is hurricane country).  This course is as close to The Old Course in many ways as any I have ever seen.  Al S. wanted a course he could play with his buddies every day and never get bored, rarely lose a ball and the course he had built has the following attributes:

·      the fairways range from about 50 to 100 yards in width;
·      there are 60 bunkers…of which only 7 are “greenside” and more than half of the 60 are located within the fairways (similar to The Old Course and RI’s Shelter Harbor from more recent times);
·      the greens are generally protected by “angles” and “slopes”...come in at the wrong angle for that day’s pin position and you will face a guarding upslope and/or run off downslope that will make it almost impossible to stop your approach shot on the green, much less near the pin;
·      the greens cant to the left, right , back, and front…and several have mounds (see photo of double green #8 and #18) and crevasses that are hard to believe…deep and narrow to the point where they almost cannot be mowed;

Wolf Point 8-18 double green.  Dew early in morning and our footsteps.  Clearly Not a professional photographer!!

·      the course was designed to be as fast and firm as the true links courses of GB&I, even though the turf has no sand  (sand was brought in from one of  Al S.’s other properties);
·      a single winding creek (and its tributary) is wonderfully utilized and affects play on 7 holes;
·      there are no “tee boxes”…just a series of relatively small flat areas with no marking stones or tee markers (in fact, there are no yardages on sprinkler heads or anyplace else…even the scorecard)…you simply decide how you wish to play a hole and tee it up from the appropriate spot
·      the capital cost (excluding land which already belonged to Al S.) was about $3 million including architectural fees, drainage, sprinkler system, etc.) and the annual maintenance budget is about $500,000;
·      the architect, Mike Nuzzo was fairly unknown when he was selected for this job by Al S.; he is better known today but still relatively unheralded; and
·      the fairways have bumps and rolls covering almost very square inch (except for a few flat spots protected by bunkering)…all “manufactured” by Nuzzo and his shapers…but all of which somehow look natural even with the dead flat surrounding property.

We ended up playing 32 holes (2nd 18 cut short by a strong burst of rain…which was followed by thunderstorms all the way back to Houston).  Before leaving we spent about 45 minutes with Don Mahaffey, who managed the construction process at WP and has since served as Greenskeeper.  To put in simply, Don “gets it.”  He truly understands and is dedicated to the “firm/fast” philosophy as well as what a golf club (although WP is not a club…it has always had one owner…first Al S. and now Al’s widow Dianna) needs and does not need to operate efficiently as a golf club. 

Sadly, on July 30, 2016, Al S. passed away after suffering injuries from a fall (while trimming a tree near his house on the property at the age of 79).  After a celebration of Al S.’s life with a memorial tournament held shortly after his passing, the course was temporarily closed to play while his widow sorted out how to go forward.  When we played it on January 20, 2017, we were the first to play it since early August…almost 6 months.  Maintenance had been cut back to a bare minimum, the course was not its usual fast and firm, and weeds were starting to grow in the bunkers.  However, there was no doubt that it can (and will) be brought back to its normal condition in short order.  At that point, I hope to return to enjoy it as it was intended to be. 

WP plays to about 6600 yards from the back...but as with golf in GB&I, it is the wind that determines play.  It has never been on anyone’s top 100…especially since it is estimated that less than 1000 golfers have had the chance to play it.  I feel honored to have joined that exclusive club.  To paraphrase what Bandon Dunes says, this is “Golf as it was meant to be”.

This was course #895 for me...and it is now Monday evening January 30....so I stand at 897.  Next post will be about Cabo...and our 9 day stay.







Wednesday, January 25, 2017

66. Starting 2017

Starting 2017


HAPPY NEW (and getting old) YEAR!!

A couple of weeks ago, someone posted a question on GolfClubAtlas.com asking what were “the courses that have defined your golfing life.”  This one was a tough one for me.  I have been so very fortunate.  Through 2016, I have been afforded the opportunity to play 894 courses, including literally every still existing course ever named as a World Top 100 on any list published by 10 sources (e.g. Golf Magazine, Top100GolfCourses.co.uk, Golf Digest, GCA, etc. etc. …even Tom MacWood’s 1939 Spoof List) or a total of 318 courses.  Thinking about this question forced me to break down my 61+ years playing into the following periods with the most important courses defined, including the year first played.

Early Golf Life:

--Honesdale GC  (1955)-at age 10 first course ever played while at summer camp nearby; a nine holer in hometown of Art Wall Jr. (1959 Masters Champion) and shot a smooth 75 for 9
--Kissena Golf Course (1956)-at age 11 a NYC muni in middle of Queens accessible via two bus rides; par 64 4650 yards from the tips and hardpan tees with no grass…but who knew?
--Bethpage Black (1960)-first world class course ever seen, with greatness obvious even with weeds growing in bunkers.

Exposure to Greatness:

--Cypress Point (1969)-on vacation at Pebble staying in a really tiny but semi-affordable room at Del Monte Lodge; in those days staying at lodge meant you could play Cypress Tues and Thurs (tax laws killed that shortly thereafter); still #1 in world IMO
--The Old Course (1970)-first true links ever for me; if memory is right green fee was £1.00; felt strange at first but quickly grew on me; fascinating and subtle…in many ways course was hard to comprehend but I loved the ground game
--Quaker Ridge (1975)-first real club I joined and first great course played regularly; member 1975-2000…like most special things in life, under-appreciated until you leave;
--Royal Melbourne-Comp (1977)-links without a visible sea…sheer brilliance on both East and West courses and the Composite amazing; for me discovery that brilliant courses are not just in GB&I and USA;
--Muirfield (1977)-wow wow wow, what a place; best combination of US and Scottish golf; perhaps greatest championship course in existence; even got to be friends with that very special curmudgeon, HCEG’s Secty, Capt. Paddy Hanmer (long story);
--Royal Dornoch (1981)-simply stunning and wonderful, and back then so peaceful, unhurried, and uncrowded; my #2 in world
--North Berwick (1983)-actually walked it with Crenshaw and Herb Warren Wind in 1981; such a lesson in architecture…most copied set of holes in world, and not just the Redan…how about (with great adaptations shown to right):
#1                    (#1 at NLGA);
#6, 10, 11        (#5, 17 and 18 at Seminole);
#2 (Cape)        (original Cape Driving hole copied so so many places);
#9                    (#13 at Maidstone);  
#13                  not possible to copy that wall (except with a creek);
#15 (Redan)    #4 at NGLA, #7 Shinney; #7 Chicago, #6 Yeamans, #2 Somerset Hills, #3 Piping Rock…and on and on and on…THE most copied hole in golf.

Drawn Back by the 2nd Golden Age

By the end of 1985 I had played 292 courses, but had really lost interest as so many of the new courses were nothing special (while I could not articulate why they were uninteresting, I could feel it viscerally).  Over the next 21 years I would only play another 130 courses (average of 6.2/year), but then the following discoveries propelled me forward (playing 472 courses over the last 10 years):
--Bandon & Pacific Dunes (2003)-What an amazing place and what a pain in the ass to get here!  But, absolutely worth the trip (have made 4 more since, and hope to make at least one more…have to play the Sheep Ranch).  Clearly ushering in a new age and a special one at that.  I recall Herb Wind saying that while the architects of the First Golden Age had wonderful land to build on, architects after WW II had no such land available near population centers (making their job much much tougher).  With Bandon Dunes Resort, that equation changed dramatically.  Environmental regulation (e.g., wetland regulations) create issues for all modern courses built that did not affect courses built in the First Golden Age
--Sand Hills (2010)-After playing this masterpiece (my 449th) twice with Pat, I told her there were about 10 courses I had never played and really wanted to experience (my first golf bucket list)…her response was “go for it”.  She may have subsequently regretted that response, as in the following 6 years I played an additional 418 courses (average of 69.7/year).
--The Country Club (1977)-Had played 2x before meeting Pat in 2007 and have played it over 500 times since.  It is a very special club and place; I have been privileged to observe the results of Gil Hanse’s improvements incorporated for the ’13 US Am and planned for the ’22 US Open.  Witnessing that process, especially the wonderfully positive results of a major tree removal program, have been highly educational for me.

Wrap-Up

With all the places I have played, and all the rounds, the most memorable took place in 2010 and 2013, when I returned to play Kissena and Honesdale for the first time in 43 and 57 years respectively.  Yes, playing the world’s great tracks has been a marvelous privilege, but the flood of memories evoked by returning to these two was truly my most memorable and meaningful set of experiences.  As someone told me as long time ago,  “there is no such thing as a bad golf course”.


Current Trip

We are now in Cabo, Mexico.  Left Pinehurst on January 18 and stopped in Houston for two days before continuing on to Cabo.  More soon about the amazing Wolf Point Ranch in Port Lavaca, TX and courses here in Cabo.