100. Return to Scotland, A Trip of a Lifetime, September 1-21, 2017, Part V

Return to Scotland, A Trip of a Lifetime, September 1-21, 2017, Part V

Was great to be back with Pat, and the break probably did both of us good.  She got to see her castles and gardens and I was able to run around and play all the golf I wanted (no…all that I could physically endure…18 holes a day every day walking in lots of wind and rain is very wearing). 

Gleneagles-King’s Course, September 16, 2017: After breakfast it was down to the first tee of The King’s Course.  I first played The King’s Course in 1970, and played it one other time about 25 years ago.  I have a belief that when in Scotland, one should only play links tracks, and have had to make exceptions for my bucket lists (eg…Gleneagle’s PGA Centenary which hosted the 2014 Ryder Cup) but The King’s Course is a fun round of golf even without pure links conditions.  The scenery here is awesome, and James Braid’s design includes many of the same architectural features and playing strategies that one finds on the great links courses of Scotland---wide playing corridors, wonderful use of angles, and interesting decisions to be made on most tee boxes.  I had forgotten just how hilly this course is…and frankly the round proved to be very tiring (this did make for 15 rounds walking in as many days).

The King’s has done well on Planet Golf’s World 100 having been included in all of their lists (at #69 on the 2017 list and  #75 for all earlier lists).  It made a brief appearance on GM’s 1985 list at #93, was #37 on the architect’s survey and #30 on the MacWood Spoof. 

My play this day was less than stellar…shooting a 44 – 42 = 86.  My putting woes returned and my thought processes were mediocre at best…above all, golf requires clear decisive thinking.  To some degree, I was getting ahead of myself, looking forward to our rounds the next two days back in East Lothian at North Berwick GC and Gullane GC’s #1 Course.

 

After the round, Pat and I had lunch and then drove south and east to Gullane to one of the world’s great hotel’s, Greywalls.  John and Cathy had arrived just before us and the weather was quite nice.  We unpacked, enjoyed a much-needed nap, and a delightful dinner.  Bedtime came early…we were playing the West Links at North Berwick Sunday morning.

North Berwick-West Links, September 17, 2017:  I first set eyes on North Berwick in 1981 and am ashamed to say I had never heard of it before then.  I was on a small tour of great Scottish and English golf courses, which featured Ben Crenshaw and Herbert Warren Wind, and this really was the start of my (still rather limited) education in golf architecture.  During that tour we played (in order) Preswick, Turnberry, Muirfield, The Old Course, Royal Birkdale, and Royal Liverpool (“Hoylake”).  I played with Ben at Prestwick, Muirfield, TOC, and Hoylake, and with Herb at Turnberry.  After the round at Muirfield, some of us joined Ben and Herb for a walk around North Berwick, which lies about 5 miles east of Muirfield.  This was my first chance to see the original Redan Hole (although I had played a number of adaptations before this visit).

The game of golf traces back to the 17^th century on the land occupied by the West Links. North Berwick GC was founded in 1832, and sits directly on the Firth of Forth (which influences play on six holes).  IMHO, North Berwick is the second most important course architecturally in the world (second to TOC).  It is full of quirky features but these “work” in addition of adding “fun” to the round.  And when the winds blows, this is a true championship test (even at only 6579 yards).  I believe adaptations of many of its holes may be found at great courses the world over.  For example:

o   #1…342 yard par 4 and I think CB Macdonald’s first hole at NGLA (“The National”) in Southampton NY is an adaptation of this short par 4 with a green perched atop a dune;

o   #2…433 yard par 4 with Firth to the right…considered by many to be the original Cape driving hole (angle off the tee requires decision…golfer must carry some part of the Firth and beach, but not “bite off more than one can chew” (some adaptations: #7 at Bethpage Black, NGLA #14, Royal Mebourne-W #6 and 18, Cape Wickham #18, Sakonnet #17, Portstewart #1, Tobacco Rd #13, Lost Dunes #15, Des Moines-S #13, and Blue Mound #11);

o   #6…181 yard par 3 over deep gorge (see Seminole #5)

o   #9…522 yard par 5 turning left and uphill over last 125 yards (see Maidstone #13);

o   #10 & 11…172 yard downhill par 3 and 549 yard par 5 both with Firth to left (see Seminole #17 and 18), and

o   #15…189 yard Redan hole…generally considered to be the most copied hole in the world…too many adaptations to mention.

And the above does not even include the incomparable #13 and #16.

We played in two groups.  Pat and Cathy played with Simon Holt (see The Old Course write up about three posts ago) who is a member and John and I played with David R., a remarkable young Scot, who is a member at North Berwick and the youngest member of the Honourable Company.  David has a nice game and maturity well beyond his very few years.  His father, mother and sister came out to meet us on the back nine and in the clubhouse after the round, David and his father told several wonderful stories regarding the history of both clubs (his grandfather was a member as well).  All in all, simply a glorious. memorable day.  Oh, and my game returned.  Had a 41 – 44 = 85 in tough conditions. 

After years of not being recognized, North Berwick startedgetting it much deserved due on World Top 100 listings about 10 years ago.  It first appeared on GM in 2007 as #98, and has since moved steadily upward to its current #51.  Darius Oliver’s Planet Golf has it at #21, top100golfcourses.com at #49, and its highest rating ever was on the Golf Architects survey…#18.  So so interesting and so much fun…while also challenging golfers at all skill levels.  A must stop in Scotland.

Gullane Golf Club, Course No.1, September 18, 2017:  Along the coastline of the Fifth of Forth, there is an almost unbroken row of golf courses/clubs, starting from the west in order: Craigielaw GC, Kilspindie GC, Luffness New GC, Gullane GC (Courses 1,2 and 3), Muirfield (HCEG), Renaissance GC, Archerfield GC (Fidra Links and Dirleton Links), North Berwick GC-West, and Glen GC.  This is a stretch of 12 golf courses covering an almost continuous 10 mile stretch of coastline.  Gullane GC’s No. 1 Course sits in the middle of this stretch, at the west end of the town of Gullane, and affords phenomenal views from its 7^th tee on top of Gullane Hill. 

Golf was played on this land as far back as 1650, and informal matches played in the early 1800’s.  Gullane GC was formed in 1882 and by 1910 there were three courses available for play.  Today, Gullane No.1 is considered to be the championship test of the three and when Gullane hosted the 2015 Scottish Open, a composite course was utilized featuring 16 holes from No. 1 and two from No. 2.

I first played Gullane in 1981, and have played it on almost every trip to East Lothian since then.  While lacking the pure brilliance of its neighbor Muirfield and the fun quirkiness of North Berwick, it is almost a combination of the two…with a good number of strong fair holes, as well as a few highly interesting, quirky holes.  I believe the 17^th hole of Sleepy Hollow (NY) is an adaptation of #17 at Gullane #1.

I started to really find my game this day.  After a good drive on one, there were shouts from our caddies after my 9-iron disappeared near the front pin…alas, it was behind a mound at the front edge of the green and was 6’ from the hole…and I missed the putt.  But the good ball striking continued and I finished the day with a strong 37 -39 =76.  No three putt greens certainly helped but I was swinging freely and making solid contact.

After the round, it was nap time again and for dinner, a wonderful Italian meal at Osteria, a fabulous Italian restaurant in North Berwick that Simon had strongly recommended.  Well worth the stop when you get to North Berwick.

The weather looked like it was going to turn iffy on Wednesday afternoon.  We were scheduled to play Kilspindie Tuesday at 11am and on Wednesday, Luffness New at 9:30 followed by my playing the nine-hole Musselburgh Links, The Old Golf Course.  Given the forecast I moved the Musselburgh tee time to 8:30am Tuesday.

Musselburgh Links, The Old Golf Course, September 19, 2017:  You will of course recall that Musselburgh Links was the home of the HCEG until 1891 and hosted a total of 6 Open Championships.  Mary, Queen of Scots is reputed to have played on this property in 1567 (do the math…450 years ago) and documentary evidence shows the results of a match on 2 March 1672.

Most of the 9-hole course lies within the Musselburgh Race Track.  The first tee, most of hole #4, all of the par 3 5^th hole, and the 6^th tee lie outside the track.  At 2954 yards it is quite short for today’s play, but in many ways it is like playing in a museum.  And, if you want to play the full Open Championship Rotation, you must play it.  A total of 14 courses have hosted an Open, and it was my 13^th when I first played it in 1983 (Secretary Paddy Hanmer had advised me that I needed to play Musselburgh).  On that same trip I later played Prince’s to complete the Rota (my first “bucket list”?). 

Play was slower than I expected and I had to make a mad dash back to Kilspindie.

Kilspindie Golf Club, September 19, 2017:  Talk about just in time…as I arrived at the club, Pat, Cathy and John were waiting to tee off on the first tee (a beautiful 158 yard par 3 headed north directly at Aberlady Bay and the Firth of Forth).  Located in the charming village of Aberlady (but semi-hidden down a single lane driveway), the club sits between Craigielaw GC to the south and Luffness New GC across Aberlady Bay to the east, and just above the Bay’s magnificent tidal marshes to the north.

If you think that is confusing…read on regarding the history of its golf course and the club.  The club was founded in 1867 making it the world’s 35^th oldest club (The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers founded in 1744 is the oldest and The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews founded in 1754 as the Society of St Andrews Golfers being the second oldest).  When founded in 1867 the club was named Luffness Golf Club and in November 1898 these 18 holes were opened, having been designed by Ben Sayer and Willie Park, Jr.  However, the very next year, approximately half of Luffness GC’s members, wishing a club closer to Gullane, left to form Luffness New GC to the east across Aberlady Bay, and the original Luffness GC was renamed Aberlady GC in 1899.  Got that?

Hemmed in to the west, north and east by Aberlady Bay and to the south by Craigielaw farm (which became Craigielaw GC in 2001), the course could not expand and today totals a very short 5494 yards (par 69).  And as you might imagine, being this exposed, the wind can be fierce. This is a delightful, fun course to play.  After the par 3 first there is a very good par 5 2^nd that runs to the west with the tidal bay to the golfer’s right.  The best hole on the course is the 167-yard par 3 8^th, with railway ties (not installed by Pete Dye) holding up the green surface.  Pete must have been here because I have seen this hole copied numerous times in the USA…me thinks primarily in SC and FL.

The views at Kilspindie and very special…across Aberlady Bay to Gullane Hill and westward to the City of Edinburgh.  Yes, very short and will never be on a World 100, but just as long on fun as it is short on yardage.

I had my best round of the trip here…38 – 36 = 74…but really never had a chance to shoot my age as I finished strong (par-par-birdie) but still two strokes short of the goal.

After the round we had lunch at the club and then headed back to Greywalls…this would be our last night there.  Tomorrow’s schedule is to play Luffness New and then head to the Edinburgh airport for our flights home the next day.

Luffness New Golf Club, September 20, 2017:  Across the Bay from Kilspindie and right next to Gullane GC lies Luffness New.  Founded in 1894 and with a course designed by Old Tom Morris, this is one of the fine traditional clubs of East Lothian.  Today it totals 6502 yards (par 70) and is totally open to the wind.  After the first five holes, the golfers head west to cross a narrow road to play holes #6-18, and for reasons I cannot explain the wind was much stiffer on the west side of Route A198, even though there seemed to be nothing in the topography to cause this.  The course was in near perfect condition and was quite challenging and the club somehow felt more formal than Gullane or Kilspindie.  I ended the trip with a 41 – 43 = 84 finishing par-birdie-par.

The drive to the airport was easy and we returned our rental car and relaxed in the hotel where we also had dinner.  We were fairly tired.  Over 19 days, Pat had played/walked 10 rounds not to mention 6 days touring castles and gardens.  I had played 19 courses and a total of 348 holes (but who is counting), walking every step of the way.  The weather was iffy, but we played through it as one always does in Great Britain & Ireland.  The people we met were simply wonderful…not a questionable soul amongst them, and hopefully a bunch of newfound friends who we hope to see on golf courses somewhere in the future.  Being with Cathy and John is always a delight…they are wonderful friends. 

And, of course, journeys with my very special bride are just plain fun and wonderful.  Her sense of humor and adventurous attitude are just the best…I am indeed a fortunate man.

This journey came just about 47 years after my first visit to Scotland in September 1970.  Hopefully, this will not be my last trip to Scotland…but if it is to be my last, what a way to finish my relationship with this country…A Trip of a Lifetime!  I hope you enjoyed the ride, and I thank you for joining us.

99. Return to Scotland, A Trip of a Lifetime, September 1-21, 2017, Part IV...and I Play Course #1000

Return to Scotland, A Trip of a Lifetime, September 1-21, 2017, Part IV
And Course #1000 is Played...The Cradle at Pinehurst

First, before I continue with the Scotland trip write up, I should post two notices I sent via email to most of my regular readers by email yesterday (Oct 18):

Sent at approximately 10:10am (EDT):

Played #999 (Pete Dye track in Bulle Rock in MD) Monday morning.  Am planning to play #1000, the new Gil Hanse designed Cradle Course at Pinehurst this afternoon.  Cradle is a 9-hole par 3 course, totaling 789 yards with holes ranging in length from 56 to 127 yards (so I can handle the length—especially since the 127 yard 4th hole is downhill).  

With some luck, might even finally shoot my age.

Sent at approximately 5:10pm (EDT):

Deed done!  Played with Pinehurst good friend Jim Rohr.  Went around it 2x…really well done…tee markers have exact yardages posted and it played a total of 744 yards or 1488 for 18 holes (90 yards less than scorecard yardages for 18).  Wonderful fun…feel like a kid again.  Three holes where most players will have to hit less than a full lob wedge…so some finesse required (or alternatively hit it a little fat on those).  Finished 2nd go round at 3:35 (we teed off around 1:55 and spend some time between nines w public relations guy from Pinehurst Resort).  Birdied #9 both times.  Shot one over on both 9’s for 28-28 = 56…4 birdies, 9 pars, 4 bogies, and one double bogie (#7 second time).

So I guess I shot my age, right?  

Seriously, this is a wonderful way to spend 40 minutes, and work on your short game.  

Additionally, the Pinehurst Resort’s website just posted an article about my round yesterday…go to:

https://www.pinehurst.com/news/paul-rudovsky-chooses-the-cradle-for-his-remarkable-milestone/

Now to return to Scotland…

Castle Stuart Golf Club, September 11, 2017:  Was up early this morning, as I had to load the car, and drive down past Inverness to Castle Stuart for my 9:10 tee time (drive took about 70 minutes).  John and Cathy were taking today off so I was on my own.  As I approached CSGC, the skies started to darken and it quickly became apparent that today would not provide relief from the weather pattern experienced thus far.  There was a foursome scheduled to go off before me but they were kind enough to allow me to go off first (actually think they were waiting in the hope that the driving rain would let up a bit). 

Some background on CSGC.  It sits above the Moray Firth about 6 miles northeast of Inverness and about 10 miles southwest of Nairn GC.  I had played CSGC once before in 2013 with Pat.  It was designed by Gil Hanse and opened for play in 2009.  In 2011, 2012, 2013, and 2016 CSGC hosted the Scottish Open.  The scorecard shows the back tees totaling 7009 yards but there also exists another set of tees used for professional events which are about 7400 yards.  It first made the Golf Magazine World Top 100 in 2011 at #56 but has since then slipped to #72.  The golf architects survey had it as #44, Planet Golf currently shows CSGC as #58, and Top100golfcourses.com lists it as #54 currently.  My sense is that the #51-75 grouping is about right.

The views are spectacular sitting at varying heights above the Moray Firth (more later) and the routing is very very good (even with a Himalaya-like uphill trek from the 12th green to the 13^th tee (after a major uphill hike playing the par 5 12^th).   See the following pics to get a sense of the views and the vertical distance traversed. 

From 18th tee looking down at (from L to R) 10 green, 11 green, and 12 tee

Zoomed in at 11th green and 12th tee

The bunkering on the course is a mix of the traditional GB&I revetted (stacked wall) bunkers and flatter  (less fatal) fescue surrounded bunkers; around the greens the player deals more with sharp edges and angles than bunkers.

After the round, I headed south on a long (but quite worthwhile) 3 hour 45 minute drive down to East Lothian to the towns of Gullane and North Berwick.  We (John, Cathy and I...Pat was in Edinburgh) were staying this evening at North Berwick’s Marine Hotel (where Pat and I spent the first few days of our honeymoon in 2008) and on Tuesday morning we were scheduled for 18 holes at Muirfield.

Muirfield, September 12, 2017:  Muirfield is the home of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, the world’s oldest club (founded in 1744…that is a mere 273 years ago).  The Club initially made its home at the six hole Leith Links until the 1830’s, when it moved to a nine hole course laid out within the Musselburgh Race Track.  Finally in 1891, Muirfield, designed by Old Tom Morris became HCEG’s home.  To date, HCEG has hosted 22 Open Championships…six at Musselburgh and 16 at Muirfield…and 11 Amateur Championships (all at Muirfield).

The most extensive set of changes to Muirfield were implemented in 1923, after the purchase of an adjoining 50 acres and resulting in 14 new holes and today’s brilliant  layout with two loops of 9 holes (front nine clockwise around the perimeter and the back nine counter clockwise inside the front nine).  Since, 1923 almost all of the other changes have involved stretching tee positions to provide the yardages necessary to challenge today’s premier players, with the greatest set of changes since 1923 being implemented by Martin Hawtree in 2008.  Today, the championship tees stretch to 7245 yards…and do not be surprised if that number increases in the years ahead.

I first played Muirfield in 1977 and developed a friendship with HCEG’s then Secretary, Captain P.W.T. “Paddy” Hanmer.  Over the years, I have probably play Muirfield some 10-12 times and during my younger years considered it the finest golf course in the world.  These days, when I have trouble hitting it past my shadow at noon, my views have changed and my “greatness” criteria is much more focused on having fun on a course.  But Muirfield remains in my World Top 10 and I still consider it to be one of the three top championship courses worldwide.  Muirfield has appeared on all 43 of the  World 100 lists I have uncovered and peaked at #1 in Golf Magazine’s 1983 listing.  Today, it is #10 on GM, #9 on top100golfcourses.com, #11 on the Architect’s survey, and #26 (how is that?) on Planet Golf.

In addition to the course’s brilliant routing, the bunkers of Muirfield, and its typically high fescue rough are defining features.  Some have called it the finest “marriage” of American and British design, and the “fairest” of the Open Championship venues.  I agree.

 

I hit the ball quite well this day and the weather was much improved.  While the winds blew at a steady 15-20mph, the rain stayed away and sunshine prevailed most of the day.  I ended with a 41-42 = 83 including a birdie on the tough 8^th hole.

We were paired with a wonderful gentleman from Brazil who formerly worked for Chase Bank in Sao Paulo, Jairo L.  His short game was something to behold and I hope to convince him to visit Brookline some day.

After the round, it was time to dress for HCEG’s famous lunch (jacket and tie de rigueur).  We have a close friend at Brookline, John R., who has been a member of HCEG for a couple of decades.  His description of the club is as follows… “it is a world class eating club with a great golf course outside the clubhouse”.  Perfect description of a close to perfect club and course )no club or course has ever been perfect).

After lunch, it was time to drive back north to Aberdeen…a drive of about 3:15.  But no question, the drives down and back up were well worth it.  “A Trip of a Lifetime” through Scotland would be incomplete without a visit to Muirfield.

One final Muirfield comment.  Between the course and the Firth of Forth, the club owns a large track of incredible sand dunes.  I have been told by several reliable sources that the club is evaluating the possibility of building a second golf course amongst those dunes.  Apparently the land available is more than sufficient to house a championship course, practice range and clubhouse.  HCEG is known for moving cautiously, at a glacial pace.  But if the decision is made, this will be the prize architectural assignment of this century.

Looking north toward 11th green and Firth of Forth

Cruden Bay Golf Club--Chamionship, September 13, 2017: One of the objectives of this trip was to revisit some courses that I had played before, but only once.  These were Western Gailes, Castle Stuart, Cruden Bay, and Trump Aberdeen.  I had an excuse with regard to Castle Stuart and Trump Aberdeen (as both opened in the last 10 years)…but there was no excuse for having played Western Gailes and Cruden Bay just once before.  Pat and I played Cruden Bay in 2013 (right after playing Castle Stuart on that trip).

The current course was designed by Old Tom Morris and opened in 1899, but there is evidence pointing to the existence of a golf club in this area as far back as 1791.  In 1926, Tom Simpson and Hebert Fowler redesigned the Championship course.  Starting at 5290 yards, today from the back tees it totals 6609.  The club also has a second course (St Olaf) that totals about 5000 yards (par 64).

The Championship course is simply the definition of the word “fun”.  After a somewhat mundane first three holes, the course starts showing its teeth on the 196 yard par 3 4^th…and does not let up with the teeth and fun for the rest of the round.  Best examples of the fun here are the views from the 9^th and 10^th tees, and the 195 yard dogleg left par 3 15^th.  

View northeast from Cruden Bay's 9th tee

View southwest from Cruden Bay's 9th tee

Three Amigo's but missing our wonderful 4th, Pat!

No typo there…it is a dogleg par 3 and works well as such!   This is simply one of the great pieces of land in the world for a golf course…not quite equal to Askernish, but not that far behind.  That is not meant to minimize the efforts of the architect(s)…great pieces of land must be found, and the architect(s) must have the discipline to not tinker…as tinkering can ruin nature’s best work. 

Top 100 history?  CBGC has been a regular on GM’s World Top 100 since 1995, peaking at #55 in 1999, and is #77 currently.  It was #29 on the Architects Survey, and currently is #75 and #87 on top100golfcourses.com and Planet Golf respectively. 

I had a 43 -45 = 88 including no less than 5 three putts.  Maddening!!...but the truth is my putting stroke was awful all day.  Weather was awful again, with standing water on a couple of low lying fairways (11 and 13).

Murcar Golf Club, September 14, 2017:  Murcar lies along the North Sea coastline just north of Royal Aberdeen Golf Club (note: I would have loved to play Royal Aberdeen on this trip but time did not allow it).  Archie Simpson is credited with helping with the original design in 1908 and James Braid with similar assistance in the early 1930’s.  Built amongst the dunes that also grace Royal Aberdeen, some claim the best course in the world would be #1-9 at Royal Aberdeen then hopping the fence to play #4-12 on Murcar.  Murcar has not been included on any World Top 100.   I had not played Murcar previously.

The weather here was the worst I saw on the trip except for Western Gailes.  Frankly, I just wanted to get the round completed and was negligent in my duties.  But the course has a number of great holes (best probably is #7) but also has a few that I think are too squeezed and tight due to the proximity of the dunes (particularly #3).  Yes, certain days it can be tough to do the proper job, and I was guilty this day.  The highlight of the day was getting back to the hotel for a warm shower!

Trump International Golf Links-Scotland, September 15, 2017:  Designed by Martin Hawtree and opened in 2012, Pat and I played it in 2013.  Built amongst the most spectacular set of seaside sand dunes I have ever seen, this is one of the most jaw dropping courses I have played. 

Today the course totals 7428 yards and I believe is much improved compared to 2013.  The two major improvements are the elimination of cross-hatch fairway cutting, which looked totally out of place in Scotland, and, more importantly, removing the rye grass that was mixed with the fescue with the original plantings.  Donald wanted the golf course to be green and rye grass does that…but rye grass is very “sticky”, limiting roll out on full shots.

Since its opening, Trump Aberdeen has moved up slightly on GM’s World 100 from #50 to #46, is now #54 on Golf Digest, #70 on Planet Golf, #63 on the Architects Survey, and #65 on top100golfcourses.com.  I place it in the #51-75 bracket.  Like most new courses, it needs some time to “age” properly and stand the test of time.

I was the first one off in the morning, which was great (John and Cathy played Royal Aberdeen).  I hit the ball well and the weather was decent (a couple of squalls).  Had a 41 – 42 = 83 after a double bogey on 17 and a bogey on 18 but was fairly pleased.

Trump Aberdeen first tee and fairway

 

After the round, back in the car for the drive to Gleneagles.  Pat’s tour was ending this evening and the group was staying at Gleneagles for two nights (departing the next morning), so we would see each other tonight (although I would be having dinner with John and Cathy while she had the closing dinner for her tour).  Then tomorrow morning, the four of us would play The King’s Course at Gleneagles.

98. Return to Scotland, A Trip of a Lifetime, September 1-21, 2017, Part III--Dornoch and Brora

Return to Scotland, A Trip of a Lifetime, September 1-21, 2017, Part III

After a wonderful meal at Royal Golf Hotel, it was off to bed and a chance to sleep late, as our tee time with John and Cathy was at 3:10pm.  So we had a relaxing morning on Saturday and I even took a short walk around town…taking the photo shown below:

Me thinks this is the only Left turn I shall ever make

Royal Dornoch Golf Club, September 9, 2017:  Records exist evidencing the playing of the game of golf in Dornoch as far back as 1616…even before I picked up the game.  The course was originally designed by Old Tom Morris starting with his visit in 1886.  John Sutherland served as Secretary of the club from 1893 to 1953 and was intimately involved with the evolution of the course during this time span.  And as a player, Sutherland was no slouch, having defeated Open Champion Harold Hilton at the 1909 Amateur Championship contested at Muirfield.  The course was changed in the late 1940’s by dropping 6 holes near the clubhouse and adding replacement holes at the north end.

Donald Ross and his brother Alec were born and raised in Dornoch and many (including I) believe Ross’ use of raised “turtle back” greens (think Pinehurst #2) was a result of playing what is now Royal Dornoch during his first 25 years before moving to St. Andrews and then emigrating to the United States.  Alec won the US Open at Philadelphia Cricket Club (St. Martin’s Course) in 1907.

My sense is that Royal Dornoch (the club was granted the “Royal” designation in 1906 by King Edward the Seventh) first became know in the USA as a result of one of Herb Warren Wind’s epistles in The New Yorker in the mid-late 1970’s.  I first played Royal Dornoch in early July 1981…when Americans were few and far between.  The charm, peacefulness, pure delight of the course, club and entire area, and the subtle but devilishness of the design features (e.g. the turtleback greens that Ross learned so much from) have caused me to rate it #2 worldwide (2^nd to Cypress Point) on my personal Worldwide Top 100.  And don’t ask…I ain’t putting on this blog a personal Top 100 (or in an email…so don’t bother, or you will be punished by never being able to unsubscribe from this blog).  I can get through 1-4, then I have a “tie” between 7 others as to places 5-11.  Not really a tie…just that I find my decision on these spots moves from day to day and mood to mood.

In fact, my rating of Royal Dornoch as #2 is higher than other lists…its highest rating ever according to “the world’s greatest spreadsheet” was #5 (Golf Digest 2016 and Planet Golf 2009), and it was included on 41 or 43 lists to date not included on Golf Magazine 1979 Top 50 or the MacWood 1939 Spoof List).  Overall, in the last few years it generally has been rated around #7-#15 or so.

As you must know, Royal Dornoch has never hosted an Open Championship but it hosted an Amateur Championship in 1985 that as I recall drew a huge number of applications.

The weather continued to be mixed…intermittent squalls had to be dealt with.  I played poorly to start but started hitting the ball very well after the course turned back southward on #9.  Birdied #12 (par 5) and #16 (uphill par 4 and hit another superb 3-wood...if I do say so myself)…but got several tough breaks coming in on the back.  Ended up with a 47-41 = 88, but was very pleased with my ball striking for the last 10 holes.

Two of the most memorable sights when playing this course come on the front nine.  After the par 3 2^nd hole, there is a walk of about 50 yards through gorse bushes to the third tee.  As you emerge onto the 3^rd tee, the rest of the course to the north is open in front of you and the sight is something to behold.  It is like someone opened a curtain.  Then after the 6^th green there is a walk up a hill to the 7^th which sits on a plateau above the rest of the track.  The view down from #7 to holes 10 and 11 down along the beach is unforgettable…and about to be enhanced.  The club is planning to remove the large hedge that currently lines the right side of #7 and move the 7^th green right about 20 yards, which should (1) enhance the view from #7 considerably, and (2) definitely bring the downslope on the right side of the 7^th into play and, I think, improve an already fine hole.

5th green viewed from 12th tee

Par 3 13th hole with pin tucked left

On Sunday morning, we were up early and I drove Pat down to Inverness to catch a train to Edinburgh.  We would reunite Friday evening at Gleneagles as she makes her was through her beloved castles and gardens.

Brora Golf Club, September 10, 2017:  For years I had heard about this club sitting about 20 miles north of Dornoch, and all almost everyone talked about was the flocks of sheep and herds of cows (is a group of cows a herd?) that are kept off the greens by electrified fences.  Dumb old me (as well as dumb young me 30-35 years ago) assumed the course was nothing special (to be fair…there was also another factor…when you are around a course as great as Dornoch, it can be hard to do 20 miles away to play elsewhere).

So in planning this trip I made up my mind to give it a look-see.   I was simply blown away by how good it is.  Yes it is relatively short (6211 yards) but IMO this is a gem.  The views are as good as Dornoch’s, the course is in equal condition and the holes of outstanding character…especially the stretch from 13-18.  I loved it from the first hole on…and thought the first might have been a template hole for Bandon Dunes’ first hole (any takers on that theory?).  The “fences” around the greens were just two wires that were easy to step over, even for an old man like moi.  I never did trip over them and would suggest that “happiness at Brora is never having to step over the wires more than 2x/hole.”

This is a classic links Out/In designed by James Baird and opened in 1891.  One interesting aspect is that the four par 3’s all point about 90° from each other...and are four different and superb holes with yardages of 190, 162, 125, and a sharply uphill 201 yarder to conclude the round…and my scores on them were just as varied (1 birdie, 2 pars, and a double bogey on the 125 yarder). 

In terms of top 100’s, it had never been on any of the lists I have found, and I now think this is a serious oversight. Perhaps focus should be on the brilliance of the course as opposed to the sheep and cows that occupy part of the property.  BTW, neither was sighted until hole #16.

Best holes to my mind are:

            #6---190 par 3 slightly uphill and headed west…just a classic links par 3 protected by three deep bunkers in front that must be avoided and a green with a false front on the right side strong breaks off of mounds left and back right;

#13---I spent to much time in left front bunker---partially hidden

            #13---125 yard par 3 headed east…and just a devil of a hole protected by four surrounding bunkers…gave me fits just as I was starting to play well;

            #16---maybe the best of all…only 345 yards but very uphill and turning left off the tee and right to an infinity green…and the biggest cows I ever saw to the right of the fairway.

Off of 16th fairway

Cows on 16th and flag at top of hill...just visible in center of pic

I ended up with a 48-44 = 82.  It was late when I returned to Dornoch fro dinner with Cathy and John.  We had some traveling to do the next couple of days.  More to come…

Rainbow in distance from 15th green